I just finished veneering a panel for a footboard. There is an inlay design in the footboard of a tree that runs through the panel. The inlay material is Ziricote. When making the inlay piece I had to cut the Ziricote into 2 pieces and re-join it at about a 45 degree angle. I had to do this because the shape of the tree I wanted was bent over and had several curves, and I needed the grain of the Ziricote to follow the tree. The issue I have now is that there is a very thin line that I can see where the joint is, and of course it runs across the grain making it more pronounced. The line fills easily with sawdust which is of course lighter than the Ziricote and also makes it more noticeable. I need something to fill this line that will be darker than the sawdust.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If my description is not clear I can attach a picture which would be self explanatory.
Thanks in advance.
Michael
Replies
Michael ,
I'm guessing you will finish over the fill ?
Some guys use Epoxy tinted , also available are powder colors you add to a filler putty base , Mohawk makes some .
What you don't want is the fix to stand out more then the problem did .
sometimes a soft color putty under the final coats will disappear .
regards from Oregon dusty
For applications such as yours I use Mohawk coloured epoxy putty because it dries fast. The key is to match the fill area to the *finished* wood. Here's my process:
1. I apply a little bit of finish to the area where filling is needed.
2. I select an epoxy that matches (or is a little lighter) than the lightest grain of the repair area. At this point I am not worried about obtaining a perfect match.
3. I let the epoxy dry then sand flush.
4. I apply the first coat to the entire piece.
5. I then use solvent-based permanent fine tip markers to exactly match the fill to its surrounding area.
6. Apply the final coat(s) of finish.
With Ziricote I would not be surprised if you needed 4 to 5 different markers, colouring sections of the line differently to "break" the line. In my experience going darker than the surrounding area on dark woods hides repairs much better than going lighter. I.e. I err on the dark side ;-)
Thank you for the reply. I am not familiar with the Mohawk putty. Does this come in a putty form to start? I typically use System 3, 2 part 5 minute epoxy with different tints and dyes. Do you think this will work as well. The line I need to fill is very thin. My concern with the system 3 is that I want avoid getting it "all over the place" and with its consistency i will have to smear it around some. Using a putty may negate this problem, but will I be able to work it in to the line.
Thank you again. I really appreciate it.
Michael
Yes Mohawk epoxy putty comes in putty for to start with: http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=113. Just cut a small portion of the roll, knead it and work it in the line immediately. When dealing with narrow cracks or shallow voids I don't attempt to apply the epoxy putty flush with the adjacent surface like I do for "normal" wood putty because doing so tends to pull it out of the void I am trying to fill. I.e. if you apply epoxy putty on your line and press down without scrapping off the excess I am confident it will get in the line. I never worked with Ziricote but if it has pores like Walnut, Mahogany, Oak, etc, the putty will also get in the pores of the wood around the repair area. I use masking tape to form a "window" around the void to prevent this problem.I have never used the two part liquid epoxy you mention but I assume it should work. The markers are where the magic happens and this is a shading process because I colour sealed wood, as opposed to staining it. I.e. any fill material that becomes mostly non absorbent after the first coat of finish is applied should work. When in doubt always test first ;-)
Edited 8/12/2009 9:30 am ET by Senomozi
Thank you for the information. It sounds like that will work.
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