Hello,
I have made a cabinet with dovetail joinery and now that it is assembled there are small gaps that are to small for wood shavings to fill, I tried mixing some sawdust with shellac to create a filler for the cracks and yet it didn’t work because nowhere does it say how much sawdust to how much shellac, if anyone has ant advice on how to mix this filler to make it work and dry hard or have any other idea it would be greatly appreciated.
I need all the help I can get.
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Replies
Binkydo:
If the dovetails are still proud you can try sgueezing glue into the cracks and then peen them with a ball peen hammer, be careful not to peen them below the surface of the tail board,then once the glue has dried plane them off with a block plane.
Mike
And or get used to the idea that the makers of old had all kinds of gaps in their work and just didn't worry their grizzly little heads about it. There are plenty of places where the saw over cut the base line etc.
Just figure on better luck next time and or better concentration and more time spent.
Having never peened does the white or yellow PVA show up under the finish ? I would think it a must to use hot hide glue.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
BInky,
If you are going to paint the piece, just use Bondo.
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
The saw dust approach seldom looks right. But, you can get a very good match with small slivers of wood, cut so that the surface will have the grain in the same direction as the part that was to small to fill the gap. Touch with a small bit of glue before inserting into place. When the glue is dry, then chisel or plane the sliver flush with the surface.
Having made a few dovetails, I've had a few gaps to fill. My challenge was making appropriately thin tapered shavings. Slicing off with a chisel, they often broke apart. Can anyone suggest tricks to making these little guys?
There are lots of ways:
1. Use your table saw to rip such that the offcut is a very thin strip. If you want a taper, use some sandpaper on a flat surface to make one on the bits you'll cut out of the strip with a chisel.
2. Plane some rank shavings off a board with a plane.
3. Use a hand saw to cut very thin wedges or just strips you then taper with sandpaper.
Don:I agree with Samson. LIke you, I have problems using a chisel to get just the right thin piece without crumbling. However, a rank cut with a plane is often just the ticket, as is a very thin slice by a dovetail or very light tenon saw.I can't speak to tale saws as I don't have one.Joe
don,i use a belt sander to thin and taper my little dutchman. of course i cut them long, the extra length acts as a handle and, done correctly, the little dutch fellows vanish into my mistakes.
eef
For big gaps, use wedges in the manner recommended by Steve Schoene. For small gaps, use crazy glue. Apply a little crazy glue to the gap and immediately sand over the joint. I use a ROS. The saw dust will fill the gap and the glue will bind it.
Good luck, Tom.
I have seen old works that the dovetails were NOT that perfect.. BUT held everything in place for MANY, many years!
I also use CA and some dust, works well and darn near invisible. A tip I picked up from Mr. Rae...........R
Thanks for the suggestion except what is CA?
Bink,
Crazy Glue.
Yo Gofiqure,Thanks a bunch
Steve is right. I just finished a small oak cabinet and had some gaps that bothered my eye. One more time, just to reconfirm, I did one with sawdust, It does not look right. Neither did earlier attempts with different kinds of glue. The others were filled with slivers and plane shavings. With them you can't see the repair.
Joe
Edited 11/3/2009 1:49 pm ET by Joe Sullivan
b,
there's something quietly comforting for me to listen to this dialogue about how we repair gaps in our dovetails. there is so much to be said for how well we learn to fix what's less than perfect. some things, especially in my earlier days, were simply beyond repair and had to be done all over again. it is pleasant to simply regard a mistake as varying degrees of what's fixable/acceptable. it is interesting to notice that the less uptight i am about potential mistakes, the less i make them. somehow, being confident about how to repair mistakes, indicates confidence in an ever improving skill level and that confidence shows itself as fewer mistakes and better quality work.
eef
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