Replies

1. 
   vern | Aug 04, 2004 06:31am | #1

   this should not be a big problem==make an estimated cut list[in other words don't spend a lot of time cause it isn't going to be that exact] from that -group your widths [you will be using so much 3".4" and so on] add 30% and don't forget to take your tape and list with you-- get into the habit of looking at BOTH sides of a board--if you have some left over that's wonderful because it assures your friends that you will be making another project regardless how this one turns out--good luck!!

   making sawdust
2. 
   301 | Aug 04, 2004 07:26am | #2

   I usually figure a waste factor of 1.5 but seldom have any waste left over because most mahogany you see (at a reputable dealer) is of such high quality. The African Mahogany is especially beautiful and at great prices.

3. 
   CajunDan | Aug 04, 2004 03:38pm | #3

   I like to use mahogany because there is so little waste. But... You will probably want to use straight grained boards for stiles and rails, and figured boards for panels. This can cause some waste. Honduras and Brazil mahogany usually work best for rails and stiles, while African mahogany (especially sapele) makes beautiful panels. IMO.

   Figured mahogany tears out easily when planing, so be careful.

   Also, mahogany often has wormholes you need to work around, so check carefully.

   If this is your first time using mahogany, you are in for a treat! Don't get spoiled.

   Good luck,

   Dan

1. 
   coolbreeze | Aug 04, 2004 06:06pm | #4

   Thanks all,

   Tonight, I will draw up the plan and  lay out the cut grid. I will plan on using Honduran mahogany for the case and stile & rails. I will try my best to get and use straight grained wood on the S & R's. I will try to get some African mahogany for the panels. I will purchase about 50% more than I need, allowing for waste.

   Is this a great forum or what?  Thanks!!

1. 
   robkelly | Aug 04, 2004 10:14pm | #5

   I work a lot with mahogany and a 50% waste factor is too high. Because mahogany comes in such a variety of widths and lengths, if you take your cut list to the wood store, you can plan the purchase to minimize waste. I always plan a 20% waste factor, and usually have some amount of usable lumber left over.

1. 
   coolbreeze | Aug 04, 2004 10:49pm | #6

   Thanks Rob

   Would you consider ordering from a reputable vendor sight unseen?  I have few choices in my area. I would have to go 120 miles at minimum. That, however, would be the only option I would actually exercise unless good folks tell me that telephone ordering works.

   What say you?

1. 
   robkelly | Aug 05, 2004 02:32am | #7

   Coolbreeze, where are you? Generally, a wood dealer buys a lift of boards, from 500-1500 bd ft. He doesn't pick them, and unless he's really lucky, it's a mixture of A, B, and C boards. He picks the A++ and A+ boards for special sales ( e.g. curly maple, figured mahogany, etc.)  In 8/4 or 6/4 mahogony, the super straight grain stuff gets pulled for door stock at an extra $ or 2 a bd ft. The rest goes on the rack, where the customers come in and sort thru it. By now the really super primo stuff is gone. The walk-in customers buy all the remaining A and most of the B. If a guy is building a cabinet, there might be a 10 ft board with 7 ft of reasonably straight grain and 3 ft of swirly grain at the end which is no good for rails and stiles but will make a gorgeous panel or drawer front. Or there's a board with a defect that can be cut out, leaving A quality on the remaining 95%, only now it's less wide.          

   At this point, all of the A and most of the B are gone, together with much of the salvageable C. And then your mail order comes in. Do I need to go further?

   There are some mail order places which sell boards S4S that are sound. But you won't get figure, width or length. Also no thickness > 3/4" or 13/16" if you're lucky.

   So my advice is to find a place that sells wood in the rough, make sure they have a good amount of what you want, and go there with a cut list, a tape measure and a piece of chalk to mark out on the boards you buy which pieces you're going to cut out of it.

   Edit: On July 16 in the Gallery, FG was kind enough to post pictures of a mahogany cabinet I made. It's a little out of focus because she had to scan my somewhat out of focus photos into her computer, then post them.  The quality is good enough that you can see the importance of figure in a mahogany piece. 

   Edited 8/4/2004 7:41 pm ET by rob

2. 
   coolbreeze | Aug 05, 2004 05:51am | #9

   I am in Hattiesburg Mississippi.

   I am learning. You can't emagine how much i appreciate your taking the time to give me the 'low-down".

   My question is what do you mean by:

   "He picks the A++ and A+ boards for special sales ( e.g. curly maple, figured mahogany, etc.)  In 8/4 or 6/4 mahogony, the super straight grain stuff gets pulled for door stock at an extra $ or 2 a bd ft."

   I have the extra $$. Am I the one the dealer is holding that stock for and how do I approach the dealer about getting some of his "good stuff".

   I will go to wherever there is a reputable dealer that has a lot of stock.

   Again, thanks!!

   Coolbreeze

3. 
   robkelly | Aug 05, 2004 10:28pm | #10

   I owned part of a hardwood shop for a number of years. We sold to a wide range of customers, mostly cabinet makers or woodworkers. We'd buy a lift of mahogany, maybe 800 bf. for maybe $3.50/bf.  Width would run from 5" to 12". We'd go thru the lift, and set aside the "premium" boards. If there were bookmatched boards, sequential  cuts off thesame log, we'd sell them at a premium to a guy making a high end dining table or other furniture. Wildly figured stuff went at a premium also, to furniture makers and guitar makers. Top quality wood went for $15-20/bf, rarely a bit more. What was left went on the rack at $7-8/bf., and when the stock got down to warped, cracked and twisted we'd blow it out at $4.00/bf in 20  bf minimums. Sometimes there'd be a board >12" wide, sometimes up to 24". We'd get an extra dollar or 2 per bd ft for them. Within the mahogany family, even within a species, characteristics vary widely, from dark color, very dense to light color, not-so-dense. Primo boards of the former also brought a slight premium.

   So you should start calling dealers. Find out how much stock a dealer has, and does he have different grades like FEQ (First European Quality)? Does he have figured stock? How about thickness? If you can get a nice piece of 16/4, you can resaw and make your cabinet all from the same matching piece of wood. Make sure he knows you're willing to pay a premium for real quality. Most places that sell hardwood only have a small supply of mahogany, and are staffed by people who don't know their woods. Usually they aren't worth a special trip, but if you're in the neighborhood it can't hurt to drop in. 2 wks ago I went with a friend to Anderson Plywood in Culver City, CA. They had four boards of mahogony for sale. Two were B to B-, but the other 2 were A+. All were the same price, $7.95/bf. Since I had abt 200bf at home, I didn't buy them.

4. 
   GHR | Aug 05, 2004 03:23am | #8

   You realy have to know your dealer.

   I pay $7-10/bdft for H. Mahogany. I seldom have much waste. (I make 2 23"x 5' panels from 8/4x12"x10'.)

   I did buy some A. Mahogany locally. $5/bdft. Some bad cracks. Some narrow widths. Some wooly grain. Not worth the money. Perhaps 50% waste.