Replies

1. 
   woodman2263 | Jan 30, 2008 07:49pm | #1

   Bones,

   I would use the Waterlox in the satin.  Its easy to apply and really make the grain stand out.  Of course thats just my opinion, but I don't think you could go wrong.

   Jeff

2. 
   Russell | Jan 30, 2008 08:09pm | #2

   Hey Bones,

   For the last while I've been using Andy Rae's recipe where he mixes a quick dry varnish with linseed oil and wood paste filler, I know it sounds weird but it really works amazing!!! You put about five or six coats of an oil and varnish mixture to start (like waterlox)and then one coat of the recipe as the final topcoat, its smooth as silk. Here a link to the video.

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/subscription/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26295

   Cheers.

   Russ.

   http://www.jensenfinefurniture.com
1. 
   boilerbay | Jan 31, 2008 07:03pm | #4

   Russel,Which brand of "quick dry" varnish are you using for the recipe?Thanks
   John

1. 
   Russell | Jan 31, 2008 07:26pm | #5

   Hey John,That's funny, I just finished applying a coat of the varnish mixture about five minutes ago. I'm using benjamin moore. It not something they usually carry in the store, so I had to order it in, just go to your local B.M dealer and get them to order it for you. It's a bit of a hassle but worth the effort. The paste filler is also B.M, so you can get both of those at the same time. Linseed oil you can get pretty much anywhere. Try going to the B.M website, find it and write down the code, I think the proper name for the varnish is a one hour quick drying varnish? They were hopeless the first time I went in there to try and order it, saying it was discontinued about five years ago?!? I just think she didn't want to look for it (Friday afternoon). Anyways good luck John.Russ.http://www.jensenfinefurniture.com

1. 
   boilerbay | Jan 31, 2008 11:10pm | #6

   Russell,Thanks. I did all that once before but I'll give the web site another go.John

3. 
   ak | Jan 30, 2008 09:32pm | #3

   An oil finish like waterlox would be good. To make figured cherry stand out, you have to refract the light. Shellac is a fantastic finish that really makes figured wood stand out. First apply an oil finish like BLO or Waterlox, then follow with several coats of blond shellac. This will really make it shine. Top it off with a fine coat of Briwax and stand back!

   Adam

4. 
   BG | Jan 31, 2008 11:42pm | #7

   bones,
   This must be cherry week...me to, a small CHERRY book shelf for my son. Its got 8/4 end pieces with shaped end grain and I was concerned oil would darken the ends too much. I padded on a coat of shellac and then appied minwax wipe on gloss(3) and 1 satin. It really looks quite nice and competes well with a Watco 15 step finish.

5. 
   DonC | Feb 01, 2008 09:42am | #8

   Bones

   I share your desire to not stain and apply clear finish on cherry. I've been doing this for 35 years and I only work in cherry. Guess what Bones???? 35 years = slow learner.  I got a super bargain on kilned dried cherry and glued up a BIG table. Did I say BIG??  The planks result were awful, light,dark,medium. I decided, I have to break my "never stain" rule. I went anal! I bought several (7) oil based stains and thought I would mix small test pieces until I achieved the "perfect" cherry look. I wanted the sap wood and desired heart wood to be a perfect match with my bargain cherry. Duh! I was not hopeful...especially since i have nip experiene with stains. Previous attempts resulted in swear words.

   Anyhow, I first took the mfg stains and did a "first" test. I'm still thinking I will have to mix and match "till the cows come home"before I achieve success.

   Well the incredible good new is Bones......ACE Hardware cherry oil based stain "out of the can" is perfect. Competitors were a JOKE! Did I day JOKE.

   Go figure. Just buy it an use the stain. I'm an old timer who has changed hi opinion about staining. Like you I went to great lengths to select cherry that was homonogeous. Now ,after all these years I'm just gonna use "plain ol" Ace Hardware Oil Based Stain."

   By the way, I'm just a homecraftsman/retired woodshop teacher and I don't promote any product unless I like it. No connection to Ace.

   
   

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   Edited 2/1/2008 1:44 am ET by DonC

1. 
   bones | Feb 01, 2008 07:54pm | #9

   Great post!  There is nothing like experience even if it's some times a long lesson!  For this project, I have carefully selected pieces that do not have hearwood. I would say 25-40 percent of my lumber has wound up in the scrap bin. But this one is special for my wife.  And if it does have some varying degrees, that might be character.  I really want that natural look.  Someone else suggested fuming it with some amonia. They say that use ACe hardware's industrial janitors amonia mix with good luck.  I'm going to play with a small piece to see what happens.  Thanks for the feedback and to all replies!Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.