Replies

1. 
   dgreen | May 03, 2006 07:47am | #1

   Hi Masrol

   Going the wrong way (climb cutting) can be dangerous on the router table, there's a good chance it will grab the wood and shoot it across the shop leaving no wood between the cutter and your fingers. Climb cutting on the shaper I've had it shoot the wood out even when using a power feeder and stiff featherboards. Happened often enough and violently enough that I broke down and bought a left hand cutter for that operation.

1. 
   Masrol | May 03, 2006 08:10am | #2

   Hi  dgreen,

   Thank you very much.  I shall never try to do that .

   If ever you can see me on your  computer monitor screen, you would see my smiling face.  First because I still have someone to communicate to at this hour, and secondly my guess is right that you are still  at your  shop.

   Bye and thanks again.

   Masrol  

      

    

1. 
   Biscardi | May 04, 2006 05:24am | #3

   Cutting mouldings on the router can be done safely. Figure out which way to push the stock. Use feather boards and use push sticks or blocks to keep your hands out of the way. I also have a guard mounted on my fence over the blade.Nothing screws up the finish as much as blood and bits of bone .

   Frank

1. 
   dgreen | May 04, 2006 05:51am | #4

   I did'nt think his question was whether it could be done on the table but rather if feed direction mattered.

1. 
   Masrol | May 04, 2006 07:46am | #5

   Dear dgreen,

   I post the question  whether it is possible to feed the work-piece to and fro on the router table because I find it difficult to avoid  tear out  esp. when  cutting  profile on the end grain (across the wood grain).  I used to back the work-piece with  scrap to  solve that problem and  there was occasion  where  I ran out of scrap.

   When come to cutting rail & stiles, as advised by technical instruction - I do that profiling on the router table only.  If, and only if, the router machine can  be set to reverse rotation,  possibly  we can avoid  tear out  by cutting the profile  half-way through and feed the work-piece in the reversed  direction.  It's just my presumption. I could be wrong.

   Masrol     

      

        

    

    

   Edited 5/4/2006 4:15 am by Masrol

2. 
   dgreen | May 04, 2006 09:11am | #6

   If you can get some pieces of UHMW plastic it makes great backup blocks and lasts nearly forever. Lee Valley sells some assortments of UHMW scrap that I have found very useful for that purpose, pretty reasonably priced too.

3. 
   Masrol | May 04, 2006 10:01am | #7

   Wow dgreen...! You can stay up till 3:11PM ?

   Anyway, won't  the knife cut the UHMW too ?

   Masrol

4. 
   eddiefromAustralia | May 04, 2006 11:02am | #8

   Masrol,

   On a table mounted router, you feed from right to left over 99.5% of the time.  THe other stuff is higher- skill stuff where you may be running a particular trench.

   It is dangerous to feed material from the Left hand side into the router bit.

   This diagram may help you when you are using a hand-held router.http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=9488.5

   Cheers,

   eddie

5. 
   Masrol | May 04, 2006 11:40am | #9

   Hi Eddie,

   Thanks for your reply and the link attached.

   Since you are from Australia, are you staying in Australia ?  Is it easy to get woodworking stuffs  (machines, tools & materials) in Australia ?. What about  on-line shops ?  I seldom  come across  Australia based  on-line  woodworking  retailers.  The shipping cost (from Australia to Malaysia) could be cheaper as compared to (from USA to Malaysia).

    

   Masrol  

    

    

6. 
   eddiefromAustralia | May 04, 2006 01:28pm | #11

   HI Masrol,

   There's a few you could try:

   http://www.carbatec.com.au

   http://www.mik.com.au

   http://www.thewoodworks.com.au

   http://www.timbecon.com.au

   Cheers,

   eddie

7. 
   Masrol | May 05, 2006 04:34am | #15

   Thank you Eddie for the info.

   I should make a try.

   Masrol

8. 
   dgreen | May 04, 2006 01:04pm | #10

   The knife does cut the UHMW and leaves the profile on it, just keep using the same piece. As long as it supports the profile the backer will prevent blowout.3:00 AM PST

9. 
   Masrol | May 05, 2006 04:33am | #14

   Thanks.

   Masrol

10. 
    forestgirl | May 04, 2006 06:37pm | #12

    "...because I find it difficult to avoid  tear out  esp. when  cutting  profile on the end grain (across the wood grain)."  This may have been mentioned earlier, but it bears repeating:  rout your end grain first, then do the other two edges.  the subsequent passes should clean up any tear-out at the ends of the end-grain cuts.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-) 

11. 
    Masrol | May 05, 2006 04:32am | #13

    Thank you Jamie.

    Masrol