I’m making a drawer 9″ x 34″ x 19″ deep. My plan was to bookmatch red oak for the drawer front and use 1/2 blind dovetails to join the sides. I was resawing the 1 7/8″ red oak for the drawer front and the wood split about 1″ from the end. Each 1/2 took on a bow about 5/32″ . It seems virtually impossible to joint the wood then plane it and end up with a front thick enough to make 1/2 blind dovetails – – so I’ll use it for a false drawer front – – unless someone has a better idea. If it’s used for a false drawer front, should it be glued to the drawer box or use wood screws? – – and is 1/2″ drawer front o.k.
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Replies
glueing is fine,screwing is fine, glueing and screwing is even better.
"Anything is possible with a big enough expense account."
Hunter S. Thompson
Expansion/shrinkage for red oak and maple (I assume your drawer boxes are maple) are very similar, so even over a 9" width you should not get a big difference in movement between the front and box. I would secure the front with four screws, and depending on the drawer pull used, have the bolt for the pull go through both as well.
This should secure the front just fine. Glueing is irreversible, so I would avoid it since it is not required because the screws are doing the job needed (and would complicate a future repair, if needed).
willyeh ,
I may not fully understand some of your question , a false drawer front typically is what may go in front of a sink and not be attached to a drawer box. Most but not all drawer fronts are thicker then 1/2" . 1/2" is a bit thin for dovetails on a drawer front . So if it is used for a false front there will be no drawer box to fasten it to . Maybe I just don't quite get the exact question .
in any event good luck dusty
Dusty, a false front is not the actual drawer front, but a decorative piece attached to it. Attached is a quick snapshot of my desk drawer on my factory made desk. Gives a nice visual front, but structurally part of the drawer.
Woody
Hi Woody ,
I think we have a nomenclature differential jargon thing going on here , lets see if we can meet on the same page . The drawer box has a front and a back , right ? O.K. the part you are calling the false front is attached to the drawer box, right ? What would you call the piece in front of a sink ? The poster was asking about if 1/2" was too thin to dovetail , I think he meant the box sides to the face that shows . We may be talking about the same thing but are calling it by different names . The face that shows may be the front of the box if dovetailed .
dusty
to Dusty & Woody- - I'm probably the one who has a problem correctly describing the situation - - but between your comments it describes my problem. Just last week I posted a question on the thickness of the drawer sides, back and front using 1/2 blind dovetails and the reply was 1/2" o.k. for the sides and back, the front to be 13/16, 1/2" for the blind dovetails. I had planned on following that however I'm now building the "box" with 1/2" white ash and putting a 1/2" red oak on the front. I have the white ash down to 3/4" so if you think 1/2" is too thin, pls let me know, there's still time to go with 5/8" or 3/4" - - - just an added note, the red oak that took on a bow has so much stress in the wood I have been unable to joint it flat - - oh well, beginner's luck.
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