Hello –
I’m a DIY / hobbyist new to knots. Been a lurker and sometime poster for a little while now over at breaktime.
I’m also new to woodworking, and I could use some advice on a recent project. My wife wanted a set of cabinet / lockers for the kids to keep their stuff in (bookbags, jackets, shoes, lunchboxes, etc) rather than everything appearing in various closets and spots around the house. The hope is that it will be a bit of personal space that they will keep under control themselves. So I sketched up something that met the description, got her approval, and built them out of 3/4″ birch plywood. The most notable design consideration was to make a sort of ‘stair-step’ series of shelves at the bottom, which would help the younger kids climb up a bit to reach the hangers and hooks. Figured they’re going to do it anyways, might as well make the shelves so that it’s a bit easier and safer than scaling a sheer wall.
After building them, I realize that I really ought to put a little face frame on the fronts, if nothing else to project the precious little veneers on the edges. I’m not sure how best to add such a frame, though, given that the shelves will take some foot traffic (figure 40lbs tops, probably, but a disproportionate amount of wear!). The plywood spans about 24″ (see the pics). Also, my woodworking tool selection is anemic right now: router & circular saw and some hand tools. Is this the excuse I’ve been waiting for to go out and by a biscuit joiner? Or is there another approach I don’t know about.
Finish will be medium stain and a spar varnish. Unless there are better ideas out there.
A couple of images are attached. Overall dimensions are 48″ wide, 72″ tall, 20″ deep. Shelves are dado-ed on the outer panels and slotted into the middle partition. The backs (not yet installed) will be 1/4″ ply.
Aside: I’m thinking now that I probably have the plywood inside out from standard practice as the rotary oak plys are facing out, and the birch in, but I kind of like that look better. Just learned about rotary veneering on this board yesterday….
thanks for any advice.
Replies
dum ( I hope you don't mind the abbreviation ) -- a face frame would be a good thing . It would help protect the veneer edges as well as stiffen the whole structure. Bisquiting the frame together is one way to go, but just remember that your face frame members need to be about 2-1/2" wide or the bisquits will show on the edges. Another option, which I've also done, is to use pocket screws to join the frame together. Both ways will probably require some new tools, which is a good thing!
Well, 'Mr. founder' might be preferable (however less apt ;-)
I was a bit confused by your post at first - but I gather that when you mentioned the 2.5" limitation you are talking about biscuiting the face frame together, rather than for connecting the frame to the plywood. pocket screws also a good idea.
thanks
dumfounder-- you're right , the 2 1/2" limitation is joining face frame to face frame. ( stile to rail) . Sorry I didn't make that clear.
Dumfounder,
The answer to your question depends on how much your wanna buy a new toy...and how much you wanna spend....you can buy rolls of oak looking tape and put it on the trim with an iron...(read: no new toy)...you know about biscuits...router table and run a tongue and dado through some hardwood for edging....you can also glue on hardwood pieces and use finish nails to hold in place till dry...those hardwood pieces could have a rabbit to provide extra support for under the shelf...there are also table saw solutions too...lol.
I like the rabbet idea, if I understand correctly: i envision a 2" wide 6/4 piece with rounded corners and a 1/2" rabbet cut out so that the ply fits into the face, flush with the top of the shelf. Seems like the under-shelf support would be ideal. Unfortunately I'm not ready to buy a table saw, for space, money and lack of research reasons! so this solution seems out of reach for now, unless there's another way to do it.
Agree with another poster that iron-on's won't do with this bunch of kids.
thanks
Dumfounder,
You can cut the rabbits with a router and, yes, what you visualize is correct.
I wouldn't go for the iron-on stuff for the kind of activity you envision. Another option that I have used successfully is to attach hardwood face frames with dowels for strength and durability. I like to use red oak because it is plentiful and inexpensive. Be sure to run a round-over bit on the edges of the frames to make it gentle on small hands.
Depending on the lumber you start with, this small project could "require" a table saw and thickness planer.
And consider shellac as your first coat. Inexpensive and forgiving.
Here is a picture of a 3/4 birch ply drill press table edged in red oak. If you look carefully you might see the dowels. Finished with about four coats of shellac only.
BJ
beautiful - looks pretty tough too. I'd be very happy with that... Any advantage to doweling as opposed to screws (assuming they are plugged)? What is the typical/ minimum countersinking depth for plugged screws? I guess the countersink depth can compromise the strength of that approach and doweling becomes preferable for thin stock?
I've no experience with shellac- I'll look into that. Not sure about it's water resistance properties.
thanks
DF, welcome -- always glad to see lurkers come out of the closet (so to speak). I just want to point something out -- you've probably already thought of it, but just in case -- these units need to be fastened to the wall if kids are going to be climbing up those stairs and reaching for stuff.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You could a apply hardwood face frame and buisquit it in or just nail or dowel it to the plywood. You can make a faceframe strong in sheer by half lapping it and using dowels.
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