I’m just completing 2 more of the following project; the finish being paint:
View Image
CREDIT: Woodsmith magazine, Vol. 29, No. 169
My question involves the case top (plain top board) and the “real” top (edge-treated board) above. Other than the exposed edge of the “real” top (it’s wider than the case top, of course), which will be painted, what should I do about the mating surfaces? My paranoia says finish them, but is that necessary?… and if it is, could the finish be a simple coat of 2# shellac? I can’t even remember what I did with the first one I made. Senioritis….
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Edited 6/14/2007 11:00 am by forestgirl
Replies
"Senorita" Your idea of a seal coat can't hurt. What kind of lumber ? Any knots ? If your going to paint it anyway, why not give it a primer all over with kilz.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Made out of poplar, 99.99% clear. Keeping things simple, so no primer methinks.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I prefer the use of primer over raw lumber, as it "grabs" better than paint and it also gives some "tooth" for the paint. IMHO ;-)Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
FG,
Well, you could glue them together...
Ray
Already went 'round on the gluing question....nope, screws only. Maybe I'll "spot weld" them, LOL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Nice drawing
Are you using sketchup?
ASK
Oh, goodness, that one's not labelled? That's from Woodsmith magazine!! Gotta fix that! forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
From my days as a house painter, I would always prime wood before painting it. If you don't prime, you end up having to put an extra coat on anyway and as Bruce says, adhesion will be much better.
As for the joined faces, I'd either prime and paint them or apply a good coat of shellac, just in case either of the tops decides to absorb moisture.
Malcolm
http://www.shellacshack.com
OK, considering the price of the Satin Impervo (an oil base) she chose for paint, maybe I'll prime. One unit is going to be Antique White or some such thing. The other is going to be more of a red color. Any way to tint the primer (say Zinsser BIN) to avoid the difficulty of covering the white? I see they have a "Deep Tint" version, but not eager to buy yet another gallon of stuff.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
I am no expert in this area of painting and this is just my experience. IMO using the old oil based enamels and getting a surface as smooth as a baby's butt with a brush is becoming a lost art.
I built a replacement cabinet for some folks a while back and used some Ben Moore oil based 'satin' enamel. You definately want to prime with oil based primer - I'm not sure what zinsser BIN is - and you can tint the primer if you like. A tint color in primer usually looks much different than it does in paint - you are going to need two coats of paint anyway, so unless the red real dark, you will probably be ok.
I assume you are going to brush this paint on? I had difficulty getting the paint to flow out with no brush marks. I finally got a acceptable finish using penitrol as an additive, lots of cussing, and the patience of an old journeyman painter in town who has delt with this kind of painting for years. If you could spray this stuff, it would be better.
On the plus side, you have those two face joint surfaces you were concerned about to practice and experiment on!
Malcolm
http://www.shellacshack.com
"On the plus side, you have those two face joint surfaces you were concerned about to practice and experiment on!" Excellent point, Malcolm!!
When we picked out this paint, at a local "specialty" paint store, I made a big point of wanting a paint that applies well. We'll see I guess. It was one of their clerks who sold me the last paint, water-based, that did not apply well!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You could just add some black dye to BIN primer. The lightness or darkness of the primer is what makes it cover well or poorly, not the color of it. Slowly but surely this gray scale approach to improved coverage is catching on. ICI recently adopted a gray scale primer system for their latex and other paints. Before that I believe that DuPont automotive was the only company using the gray scale. Having worked a lot with DuPont paints I can attest that the gray scale approach works incredibly well!!
Kevin, thanks for the info on the "grey scale" approach. What kind of dye do I look for?? Only thing I have on hand is TransTint (3 shades of brown) from Homestead Finishing.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 6/16/2007 1:43 pm by forestgirl
Water or alchol soluable dye. Universal dye would be great too since it can be dissolved in many different solvents. Basically you just need a way to incorporate the color in the BIN primer, which is alcohol based.
Hi forestgirl ,
From the drawing it looks like the 2 top pieces when done want to look tightly together as one . Do you want it to be able to be removed for any reason ?
I'm thinking you want to put them together once . Ray very politely offered up glue , as an option , imo he is soo right with his offer .
Whether primed , sealed or naked when only screwed together those 2 boards can move . The calculated risk of gluing those 2 narrow boards causing major pains is nil , in fact the glue can add to the strctural integrity of the case . Not seeing the fasteners is a good thing as well .
Take 5 minutes , grab clamps and a few scraps of anything , clamp it up ,if it's a warm day in the Puget Sound say "68°" a long lunch break or so and your good to go .
regards dusty
I ran the gluing question by the boards when I made the firt unit. Click here for that discussion. I decided nyet! on the gluing -- though I may spot-glue this set, we'll see.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled