Replies

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Feb 13, 2003 06:12pm | #1

   How does one either peel, strip or otherwise remove the bark from a tree

   harvest the wood in the spring to early summer when the tree is actively growing and the bark will peel relatively easily - I have a good sized knife procurred at a yard sale that I use in a drawknife fashion to remove the bark - main problem is holding the stick - a shaving horse would be indicated,  altho for larger pieces I've had a helper 'sit' on one end while I work on the other end that is hanging off a wagon bed -

   have any experience with the bits

   no,  I have a small chair of the style you describe and it appears to to me that the tendons are turned on a lathe - I look forward to someone who knows answering -

2. 
   notDusty | Feb 13, 2003 06:13pm | #2

        Robbie ,

      A pal of mine started  producing log or pole furniture about 15 years ago and what he had was a sort of end tenennor . The log or pole was secured to a carriage and slowly moved into the rotating cutterhead.He had this machine custom made,sort of like a pencil sharpener or dowel rounder. One way to remove the bark would be to use a draw knife , this method has been used for eons and it will do exactly what you described.

                    good luck

3. 
   bill_1010 | Feb 13, 2003 06:14pm | #3

   for the milled ends (tenons) Lee Valley makes and sells specialized bits.   Used both in a low RPM electic drill or a kit to convert to a brace.

   To debark one could use a hand power planer or a draw knife.  Id suggest draw knife, much easier to control.

   FWW has a video on rustic furniture available here at the taunton store. id buy that video and go from there if i were you.

   (add http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=45539&category=1%2C180&SID=&ccurrency=2) these are the tenon cutters that are made for rustic furniture, a forstner bit can make the mortices)

   
   

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   Edited 2/13/2003 10:17:16 AM ET by BILL_1010

1. 
   Robbie | Feb 14, 2003 12:03am | #4

   Thank you all for the responses.  The Lee Valley tenon cutters look like just the ticket.  

   Where I come from, there are a lot of small cherry trees in the midst of gigantic oaks and walnuts.  As a result, these trees just don't get too large - 8 inch diameter is the norm.  Was thinking that cherry might make a really nice alternative to the pine and cedar furniture that is available in catalogs.  The older it gets, the better it looks.   Left natural with just some clear lacquer.  What do you think?

1. 
   Turbo | Feb 14, 2003 04:10am | #5

          If you are looking for lasting quality, you may wish to kiln or air dry.  FWW or AWW magazine had the moisture content listed last summer I think.  Cherry is such a beautiful wood.  When I retire someday, I plan to make some rustic furniture too, for a house in the woods.  Good luck!

2. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Feb 14, 2003 04:57am | #6

   Robbie--

      The rich dark color of cherry is heartwood.  Sawmills cut off the light-colored sapwood and throw it away.   If you're just peeling the bark off the branches to make your furniture, won't you be looking at the sapwood?

4. 
   johnhenry922 | Feb 14, 2003 05:52am | #7

   Robbie, I too recommend the Veritas tenon cutters from Lee Valley. I had an orginal one made of maple with a square end for a brace and it was a chore to use. Now, I own the newer models made of aluminum with a hex shank. Easy to set up, not too hard to do nicely centered tenons. The sizes I bought were the 3/4", 1", 1 1/2" and the 2". The smaller ones are good for rungs and the larger sizes for major structural connections. At close to $100 for the large ones, they aren't cheap but they are a quick and sound way to make the furniture you decribe. They cut the cleanest tenons on harder varieties of wood.

   I made a bed frame with 5" diameter fir logs (peeled, spokeshaved and sanded with a 45 degree chamfer on the ends connected with 2" to 3 1/2" fir and cedar stretchers and some pencil cedar rungs as a head rest. You can peel all the members, but in the case of the smallest pencil cedar rungs, I just sanded them lightly to smooth off rough bits. The bed is not light or delicate, but it makes no noise when you move around on it.

   They do need a bigger drill on the large sizes with the 1/2" shanks, so I use a Dewalt drill for those. And a bit of spray lube in the mouth before a days cutting makes them work a lot smoother.

   John

   Next time you wave at me, use ALL your fingers. ;)
1. 
   Robbie | Feb 14, 2003 06:23pm | #8

   John:  Great info.  What kind of lube spray would you use?  Don't want to use the wrong type and end up staining the wood.

5. 
   scottp | Feb 14, 2003 06:39pm | #9

   Robbie,  I also agree with the Lee Valley tenon cutters being great, but if you would like to start out a little cheaper you can use a hole saw to get the correct dimension of the tenon and then cut down to it with a hand saw.  Not quite as quick, but not much longer.