Epoxy Inlays/fake ebony

Taycosmydog | Posted in General Discussion on April 4, 2003 06:33am

Hello There, I’m trying to dig up info on a colored epoxy or plyable type of material to imitate an Ebony inlay on a desk I’m building. Because it’s curved in shape using real ebony is not going to work for me. I need to find a durable material that I can fill into a routed shape/slot and sand flush and as it’s a desk top it needs to not swell or shrink or worse stain the wood all around the routed channel.As this would be almost the last stage of production on this desk I don’t want to run into any trouble…it’s scary enough plunging that router into a nearly finished table top as it is. Any help on technique(problems) and a source would be great help. Also silver/aluminum or other colored materials might be cool for something else I’m thinking of . Thanks to all. Larry S.

Replies

WorkshopJon | Apr 04, 2003 02:32pm | #1
At work, (I work in the field of industrial prototyping) I often have to tint and dye various resins. Typically we use aniline dyes to do this. These can be added to virtually any material. For black, .5% will usually make a resin pitch black. To purchase these locally you might try a paint store as these are what they tint their paint with. If you can't, I can tell you where to get them. They do come in liquid and paste form, the paste being much more potent. As for adding metallic particles, these can be purchased powdered or in suspension. As for a specific material to use as a filler, there are so many out there that would work once you dye them. I would suggest that you test what ever you chose on a piece of scrap first to nail down your technique, and go with a relative quick catalyzing resin (urethane, epoxy, polyester, whatever).

Jon

Edited 4/4/2003 7:43:40 AM ET by WorkshopJon
hmthomas | Apr 04, 2003 03:12pm | #2
I filled a knot & crack in a slab that I made into a table. I wanted a smooth top so I used epoxy and added a graphite dust to dye it black. It came out really nice. Great contrast too. I did it a few years ago and there isn't any sign of shrinkage. The one thing I would suggest if you do decide to go with the epoxy is to be sure to slightly overfill the cutout and then sand it to the desired level once its dried. There will be some shrinkage as it dries and it will be a little low in the middle but if you have it filled high enough you can sand and polish it to the level of the tabletop.

You did say that it was on a curved surface so I'm not sure if this method will work for you.

I used System Three epoxy, check out their website, (no, I'm not affiliated with them)they sell the graphite dust too.

Good luck, Hugh
RW | Apr 05, 2003 04:37am | #3
Same kind of thing. I'd mask around the area that you've routed out and use a razor to reveal the groove / profile. Epoxy won't stick to the tape too well and it keeps the stuff out of the pores next to what you're doing. I've used West epoxy with good results. With any epoxy, take care when stirring not to get bubbles into the mix, or when sanded these will leave little unsightly divots in your wares. I color it with pigments. I got to my local Sherwin, tell them I want a little black, and I take it home in a styro coffee cup. Make sure if you try to get your dyes that way that they know it has to be epoxy compatible. This store uses 4 different types of dyes depending on what they're putting color into.

" Blessed are the forgetful: for they get the better even of their blunders" - Nietzsche
mapleman | Apr 05, 2003 04:53am | #4
Hi,

can't help you much with the black epoxy inlay, but I do have a source for the silver inlay you asked about. Try Highland Hardware in Atlanta, Ga. I have purchased and used a "silver" inlay from them and had excellent results the first and only time I ever used it. As for worrying about routing the curved inlay, make yourself a template from 1/4" plywood, so as to make it foolproof. After routing the inlay, mask the sides of the curve with masking tape to protect the surrounding wood, and apply the material. I can't remember for sure but I beleive you melt it with a torch, and the working characteristics are similar to lead solder. Do yourself a favor, don't try solder, it doesn't work near as well as this stuff. One last piece of advice, when the inlay material as cooled and you pull the masking tape away, you will have to scrape the inlay with a cabinet scraper (handheld works better than a plane-type). If you try to sand it, you put minute scratches in the metal, which make it look dull. Scraping yields a mirror finish, and my inlay has been in a coffee table top in my living room for over 4 years with no adverse effects and zero tarnishing. If you decide to go with the silver inlay, i would highly recommend this, it is very easy. Sorry I can't seem to remember the name of the product or find my Highland Hardware catalog, but if you can give them a call, I'm sure someone there can help you out.
Wateren | Apr 05, 2003 05:26am | #5
As well as dyes already mentioned, you can mix ebony sawdust or sanding dust as a filler in the epoxy.

Cheers, Chris
Dustydon | Sep 17, 2007 06:45am | #6
I am presently doing some inlay with epoxy and using 3 colors, white, black and some green. The epoxy that I am using was purchased from an auto body supply store. The store also supplies colors that they use for painiting cars so you can get just about any color you can imagine. They put the color I purchased into small 1 oz plastic bottles.

So far the testing that I have been doing shows me that just an eye droper drop of color into 4 cc's of epoxy makes the color very strong and vivid. To prevent the color from bleeding into the adjacent wood, I am applying 4lb shellac around the crack that I am filling and when it drys, I am rubbing parifin wax to the surface so the epoxy will not stick.

Try it and let me know if it works for you.