Replies

1. 
   Gretchen | Oct 15, 2009 09:51pm | #1

   Is it cured so it won't crack?

   Gretchen
1. 
   sfonke | Oct 16, 2009 05:05am | #4

   It is about three inches thick and was brought from the Congo by my Dad about fifty years ago.  It is solid and only has some very small surface cracks in it.  I think it is pretty stable.

   Steve

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 16, 2009 06:31pm | #5

   Given your description, I'm quite sure that it will never make a good table top -- it will just be ugly and a big problem.Instead of going to the trouble of making that table, I think you should just ship that slab to me. I'll "dispose" of it in good order.<grin>

   I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
   And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
   I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
   So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 16, 2009 06:33pm | #6

   More seriously......What Steve said about a few coats of shellac as a starter, is great advice. Be careful to try to get every surface covered, so that moisture and movement are as even as possible over the years.

   I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
   And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
   I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
   So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

1. 
   sfonke | Oct 16, 2009 10:21pm | #7

   I'm very cautiously optimistic that I can render it useful somehow.  I wonder also if it will be worth filling the grain before finishing. 

   Thanks for the reply.

   Steve

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 16, 2009 11:44pm | #8

   Just a thought here, because I've never filled endgrain.Assuming you plane, scrape, and sand properly, The end grain of mahogany won't be all that much different-looking than face grain.I'd guess that if you filled the endgrain, it wouldn't be much different at all (again, still guessing here).And so the question becomes -- do you want this slab to look like an endgrain slab, or do you want it to look like a round piece of mahogany?

   I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
   And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
   I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
   So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

2. 
   sfonke | Oct 17, 2009 12:02am | #9

   I'm envisioning a nice bistro table with a high gloss finish and routed edge that highlights the age rings of the slab (about 150 or more).  My dad brought this home decades ago and it has sat around forever.  He is now 88 and I would like to do something with it that he would appreciate.

3. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 17, 2009 10:13pm | #12

   Then have at it, and have fun. I'd plane/sand/scrape to get it as close to dead flat as possible. then fill the grain and re-sand.Then, depending on your finishing skills or equipment -- maybe a french polish, or some well-rubbed-out shellac or lacquer.

   I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
   And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
   I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
   So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

3. 
   Shoemaker1 | Oct 17, 2009 06:04pm | #10

   I would like to see a pic. Please before and after
   Thanks

1. 
   sfonke | Oct 17, 2009 06:32pm | #11

   I'll post some pics as the process progresses.  I'll get the raw slab posted in the next week or so. 

2. 
   RickL | Oct 15, 2009 10:15pm | #2

   http:http://www.preservation-solutions.com/faq-pentacryl.php//www.preservation-solutions.com/faq-pentacryl.php

   Pentacryl!

3. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 16, 2009 03:43am | #3

   Short of somethink like Rick's Pentacryl suggestion, it is extremely difficult for a crosscut slab not to split as it cures.  It is often suggested to make a radial cut from edge to center to direct the splitting. 

   After dealing with the basic splitting issue, I would generally slow (you can't really stop it) moisture transfer with a number of coats of shellac, top and bottom.  Then, if you want, you can put a coat or two of a more durable top coat--such as an oil based non-polyurethane varnish.