Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 07, 2007 05:12pm | #1

   I had an electric Smart Level once. To zero it out, which has to be done each time you use it, you placed the level on a horizontal surface. You press a button, then turn the level end for end and press the button again. The big problem was the buttons. They are right in the middle of the level. When you pick up the level, you often accidentally hit the button. Now you are back to zeroing the thing out again. It became a major pain since you had to watch where you picked the level up.

   The accuracy of the level was not very good. You could pick up one end a good 1/8" before the digital display would change. It does read out in degrees of pitch from 0.0 but you would need to know how to convert that to rise per foot. It's battery operated. When the battery dies, you don't have a level. The way this level was made, it wasn't any use as a straight edge. The display could be hard to see in certain light conditions. My level stopped working after the third battery.

   If you need to figure roof pitch, it's easy with a framing square, from a ladder. Hold the horizontal leg, level on 12" and read the number on the vertical leg. Nine times out of ten it will be what is normally common for roof pitches in your area. 5/12, 6/12, 12/12, etc. You can do the same with any level, too. Make a level mark at 12" and plumb up. You use the bottom edge of the rake fascia for both methods.

   The Smart level was a waste of money for me. It didn't do anything well or accurately and those buttons T-eed me off to the point of wanting to throw the thing in the woods. Hopefully, they have changed those buttons. If the levels are still in that triangular shape, they are a pain to hold against a wall. I'll take a normal level, thank you.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
1. 
   ltwootton | Apr 08, 2007 01:08am | #3

   Thanks for the feedback. I have been led astray by the framing square method in the past, because there is usually a little distortion at the drip edge. It's fine for estimating, but I should have mentioned that I'm in the truss business, so I have to match the existing pretty accurately, to avoid field adjustments, or rebuilding. If the existing is trusses, it's usually safe to round to the nearest half-pitch, but if it's rafters, especially older construction, I need to be dead on. I remember the odd shape of the Stanley you described; that, along with your other comments, is probably why they're not sold anymore (my online searches have turned up other brands, but not the Stanley.)Thamks again.

1. 
   hammer1 | Apr 08, 2007 02:28am | #4

   I can't comment on the Stanley brand, mine was labeled Smart Level. Here is an inexpensive angle finder, it doesn't have much bearing surface, so you have to watch where you put it. http://roofgenius.com/roofangle.htmBosch makes an electronic angle finder. The module looks similar to the Smart Level. You can see the red button next to the read out. Dang thing is hard not to touch.
   http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-DWM40L-16-Inch-Digital-Protractor/dp/B00002255GI just use a 24" level. I can often use a clapboard and plumb up to the rake. My rafters can be field corrected but I never like continuing an existing roof unless I can break back enough to stagger the sheathing. I don't envy you. They'll probably blame you if it doesn't look seemless. Another thought is to have some plywood templates, triangles at various pitches. You could hold a small level on one and maybe determine variations from the norm. The less stuff you have to wrestle with on a ladder, the better.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

2. 
   Dockside | Apr 07, 2007 05:29pm | #2

   A couple of weeks ago I needed a level to install a door.  My 4ft AL that I've had four years was not reading right.  Turns out that it is out about 0.1 bubble.  Needed it now and had no time to research.  Ran out to sears and bought their digital 2 fter for $45 on sale and I like it alot.  Dead on, to a 1/10 degree. 

   FWIW....   Time will tell.