Replies

1. 
   blopar | Feb 25, 2010 08:44am | #1

   Have you considered a remote control? for sixty dollars plus shipping you could get a long ranger remote from amazon. The system will operate from anywhere in and around your shop. Just a thought

1. 
   remodlrj | Feb 25, 2010 10:21am | #3

   The unit comes with a remote, which I stated, but I still have to run wire to and from the remote switch.

2. 
   trialnut | Feb 25, 2010 08:52am | #2

   Check out this web site. The wire size calculator should answer your question. 

   http://www.csgnetwork.com/wiresizecalc.html

   Rich 

1. 
   remodlrj | Feb 25, 2010 10:26am | #4

   Thanks for the link! The wire size calculator tells me that  #14 wire is good enough but the cord that goes to and from the motor is 12/3 so I figured that was my starting point.

   I also plugged in the total length of 75 feet instead of the requested 1/2 circuit length and it still recommended the #14 wire.

3. 
   bones | Feb 25, 2010 10:31am | #5

   Here's what I have used for a long time.  Works great and clips to my belt loop.  I did buy an extra key fob to have a spare.  It would be cheaper than running the wire and buying the switch.  It will work from anywhere so the distance is not an issue.

   http://www.woodcraft.com/Catalog/ProductPage.aspx?prodid=8273

1. 
   remodlrj | Feb 25, 2010 10:57am | #6

   I still need to run wire to the unit which is the 60' away whether I run it through the switch or not. Once I locate the remote swich panal there is a remote controler I can use from anywhere. I can't see buying another switch at this time when I believe this one will do the job. If I have problems after wiring this one up I'll look into the one you recommend.

1. 
   clayandnancy | Feb 25, 2010 11:06am | #7

   I have been researching that cyclone and also the 3hp. A 20 amp circuit requires 12 gauge and a 30 amp a 10 gauge. 14 gauge wire is usually used for light circuits.

1. 
   remodlrj | Feb 25, 2010 11:19am | #8

   The wire calculator wanted to know the voltage and amperage of the motor which is 12.8 according to the web site (couldn't get up to the shop today because of the snow). So I guess they were considering a 15 amp circuit on that note. I planned on using the 20 anp circuit but wasn't sure if the length would affect the wire size due to the voltage drop. You also don't want to run to large of a circuit.

4. 
   remodlrj | Feb 25, 2010 06:46pm | #9

   Yeah I don't think I'll be updating anytime soon. I chose this unit because of it being powerful enough to do what I need without being to big to annoy anyone else around or in the neighborhood (I think). My shop is in the basement of what has now become my camp. Anyways, thanks for your help. I thought the code changed here in NY and the extra wire is now required. I guess I'll check into that as well.

   Thanks

5. 
   northhouguy | Feb 27, 2010 08:43pm | #10

   Jay,

   You can't size the motor circuit from the nameplate amps on the motor.  You must use the published amps in Table 430.248 of the National Electrical Code. From the table a 220 [V], two HP motor has a FLA of 13.8 [A].  Now you must size the feeder wire for 125% of FLA, or 17.25 [A].  So the wire should be minimum # 12 AWG protected by a breaker rated for 20 [A].

   The machine should be on a dedicated circuit, or on a single receptacle, (not a duplex, like in the house that you can plug two devices into.)  If you go the receptacle route make sure you get a 20 [A] 220 [V] configured receptacle and plug. 

   The wire can be #12 AWG, two conductor with ground.  You are not deriving a 110 [V] circuit, so you have no need for a neutral, (third) wire.

   Your run of 75 feet should not present voltage drop problems.

   I always recommend seeking advice from a qualified electrician.  Better safe than sorry.

   Best regards,

   Fred

1. 
   remodlrj | Mar 10, 2010 10:28pm | #12

   northhouguy - Thanks for the advice, I did the install and the better safe than sorry ruled the day. I ran 10/3 just because I wasn't sure about the codes. I figured that the 3 conductor couldn't do any harm. Same reasoning on the 10AWG. I hated to spend the extra money but if I had issues with the smaller wire Ild be kicking myself all the way back to the supplier to redo it so I bit the bullet.

   Alls well that ends well!

   Jay

6. 
   bill6444 | Feb 27, 2010 09:44pm | #11

   Jay, Another note of caution.  Is your furnace in the utility room.  If so, then you may be creating a bad situation.  All that air that gets sucked, gets blown somewhere and if it alters the draft in you furnace you may have a real problem. 

   Bill

1. 
   remodlrj | Mar 10, 2010 10:58pm | #13

   bill - I had a bit of concern over this. The furnace is actually in a room off of this room. At the present the furnace room has open studs to the room where the dust collector is. I plan to sheath the wall and put on a louvered door. I was also planning on putting some sort of filter over the louvres. I was more worried about dust in the air creating a fire hazard. I'm betting on the efficiency of the canister and the added precaution of the filtered louvre to be enough.  Do I need to worry about this? Would it be necessary to supply an extra feed of fresh air?

   What do you think?