I am a recovering carpenter/woodworker returning to the fold for an old client who somehow convinced me to build her a simple unit for her TV/AV equipment. What part of Nothing is simple did a few years away from the business make me forget? I digress…
I recall reading an intriguing item in Fine Woodworking about the Burgess Edge System router bit before I retired a few years ago … given the nightmares I still have about edging hardwood plywood and with this simple, three-piece, five-drawer sucker I have to construct out of maple plywood looming, I’m curious to know if anyone can give some advice on this or some other edging system (I discovered the Amana, which looks pretty good)…
Oh, and 3/4″ maple plywood still sells for $43.75 a sheet, right?
Thanks much for any and all counsel.
(I know, I know — it’s closer to $90 a sheet…)
Replies
There is tons of cheap plywood available at the big boxes but don't get sucked in to buying it.A lot of it is Chinese, with overlapping plys and behaves like a green 2 by4 when you rip it. I paid under $40 a sheet which made it expensive firewood with toxic smoke!!
I've edged a few shelves, etc in my day.All I do is make the edging 1/16" too thick.Glue it on the plywood edge with the edging above the plywood a bit. If the pieces are long I might biscuit them in a few places if needed.I usually just glue up and clamp up with a caul and clamps.
After the glue is set but not rock hard, scrape off any excess glue and put any clamps back you removed. After at least 4 hours in a heated shop you can remove the clamps.Run a 1" or wider length of masking tape down the length of the plywood next to the edging.You can handplane and sand the edging flush or rout it flush.
On a scrap piece of plywood, set the router with a straight bit the same width or wider than the edging ( assuming its less than 1" wide)to a height that almost touches the tape. Use an edge guide and rout.Now sand lightly by hand until you start to tear the tape.Remove the tape,might need a light sanding with 320 paper.
If the other side shows ,then repeat.
mike
If you just need to put a solid edge onto the plywood shelf it is easy to do without spending the bucks for a special bit. I glue on a board that is slightly thicker than the plywood and wide enough to allow adequate clamping pressure (1 1/2" or so). Once it's dry, rip off the excess board, leaving the edge the thickness you desire.
A few tips to make it easy- Start with your shelves cut oversized in length. Cut your edge board slightly shorter than the shelf so that you can still use the tablesaw fence for cross cutting. When you rip off the excess board, make an initial cut slightly larger than the final thickness of your edge (because the edging stands proud of the ply and may cause the front to be slightly out of square). Then sand the edging flush with the plywood. If the edging is thin it will take very little work to get it flush. I do this with a random orbit sander and 150 grit paper, keeping most of sander on the shelf but the pressure on the edging. Most plywood can handle a surprising amout of sanding before you burn through. Make your final rip. Crosscut your shelf to final length.
Hope this helps. If you are in need of a lipped edging, let me know as I have some thoughts on that as well.
David
Burgess edge bits are very easy to use and work well. I bought a set recently from MLCS.com (less expensive than most I've seen) and all is working well. Probably the easiest real hardwood edge system I've found.
Of course you could just use pre-glued edge banding and your wifes good iron like I do. (Just make sure to get it back in the closet before she needs it again!)
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