Hi Folks,
I have designed a home theater cabinet that is simple and easy to build. I have a fixed size space between 2 tall book/curio cabinets and I want to optimize the use of drawers for media and shelves for electronic components (receiver, dvd player, cable/satellite receiver with dvr, center speaker, etc). A 55″ – 60″ HDTV will sit on top of this cabinet that will be 75″ long 27″ high and 22″ deep. To maximize space I have designed without a face frame. I will use hardwood plywood, and my question is; should I use iron-on edge banding or solid wood, 1/4″ thick? I am thinking the solid wood is more durable than iron on material, other than that I do not know that there is any greater structural advantage to solid wood. Any suggestions?
Thanks, Richard
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Replies
Iron-on banding is perfectly fine, quite durable when properly trimmed and, in my opinion, a better (cleaner) look than applied solid stock. Do yourself a favor: Buy a quality banding. Or, plan on considerable waste resulting from the discard of finger joints used in less expensive banding.
A 60" HDTV powered with audio components? What time should I bring the beverages and snacks...
Thank you very much. The plan is to have the party to kickoff the football season.
You may need to sand the edge of the ply before ironing but that step depends entirely on the quality of your saw blade. If you sand, do so with a block to keep the ply edges square. Then be sure to blast the ply free of dust with some air. The advice to watch for the bubbling of glue is crucial. That's the indicator of a good bond. Once you have that bond, pull the iron away and let the surface cool while you burnish the edge banding down on the ply. Burnishing goes a long way towards durabiity. You can make a simple burnishing tool with a 3 inch wide by 6 inch long butt section of white cedar shingle. Round the edge over so you don't scrape the edge banding. If you don't have shingles kicking around, Poplar will do. Just be sure that the burnishing tool is of a softer wood than the edge banding and ply.Regards...
Thanks for the good tips.
Richard
DdougB--
I've done maybe a mile of 'iron-on' edgeband. Just be sure that the banding gets hot enough to completely bond the glue--you'll see the adhesive 'bubble-out' at the edges. Watch the banding as it cools to make sure that there's no loose edges. The joint w/ the other surfaces is just as close as glue-on strips, and the edgeband process is clamp-free, and maybe 1/10th the time. Finished product is visually the same; a real 'no-brainer'.
Ed
Thanks, I think with all the input that I will opt for the iron-on edge banding.
Richard
1/4" edging is unquestionably more durable. I like the look of it usually. It's far more time consuming. It adds no strength to any part. Iron-on is also fine.... but if you knock into it with someting hard, you could go through to the substrate. When I use iron-on, I find it helpful to glue-size the ply before. I wipe on a coat of pva and let it dry, sand very lightly, then apply the edging.
Thank you very much.
Richard
DdougB ,
The solid wood edge band is more durable and can take a bit more abuse then can iron on banding .
Imo there is no comparison in the strength of a glue bond compared to an iron on adhesive melt bond .
Iron on looks great and when done properly no signs or seams are visible .
Over time the iron on may show signs of aging or lifting on the edges where the solid band will stay put .
As long as you like it , it's good
dusty
Thanks Dusty.
Richard
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