about 25 years ago I met a fellow named Gary Bennet who worked in Oakland CA and did great work. He had a way of “ebonizing” maple with a particular brand of shoe polish. If I wrote it down the note has long gone. I wonder if anyone knows how to do this.
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Grant, I doubt if it was a shoe polish, but rather black leather dye. It's used for touching up scuff marks on shoes, so it's usually stocked in the shoe polish section at retail outlets. I think it's pretty generic stuff, so the brand shouldn't be a major consideration. You want a pure dye and not some proprietary concoction that might contain wax, so check the label. Another option used by some woodworkers is old fashioned, indelible India ink, or you might consider black aniline dye, available through woodworking supply outlets and most good paint stores.
thank you very much, I sorta suspected as much.
grant
There is a method of using vinegar and steel wool, believe it or not and there is an article in an older FWW about how to do it. You place the steel wool in the vinegar and the acid dissolves it and the resulting oxide is black. Very permanent.
DaVE
Also be carefull leaving the jug closed with vineger and rusty nail concoction, I read an article where the guy left it closed to tight and the chemical reaction blew the bottle up. Don't remember which woodworking magazine it was in but he was sure suprised when it blew. I've tried and it does work but takes a couple of days to week for all the rust to turn.
Terry
Grant,
John Arno is most likely right about Gary not using shoe polish but leather dye instead. I would go to Tandy Leather, a saddlery or other leather working shop and buy their leather dye (I've used Fiebings Dye in the past). I used to work for a furniture maker, Peter Pierobon, who ebonizes everything. We used black leather dye all the time with outstanding results.
Here's a link to some pieces that Peter built (long after I was gone) that will show you the kind of results that can be achieved:
http://www.johnelder.com/johnstest/Artists/PP-198.htm
Good luck.
Seth
mistake. There is no win
and there is no fail . . . there is only
make."
John Cage
I recently "ebonized" some poplar using RIT dye available in most large grocery stores, drug stores, etc.
I mixed it with water and put the stuff on a small hot plate. Soaked the pieces for awhile, dried and sanded and soaked again.
This seemed to work quite well as the dye penetrated pretty deep. I can't say exactly how color fast it will be but the dye is made for clothing and ment to go through the washer.
Good luck,
lomax
Man I LOVE this place! It just so happens I'm doing a small table with a poplar base that I am boing to ebonize. Now, I was just going to use Minwax ebony stain, but if you guys like the leather dye method, that's what I'm going for.
I saw your link Seth, and that's exactly what I'm trying to accomplish.
Question: What's next? That is to say, how do you finish it after that? Let's just assume I don't have a sprayer and a finishing booth so laquer is right out. Can you put just anything over the top?
You guys are freakin' great,
Kevin
ive had good results with Dick Blick India Black Ink for ebonizing wood. Dresner or Jewitt talks about this i think in their books
Kevin, for a deep black, tint the polish with black dye, a dye compatible with the polish of course. Slainte, RJ.
RJFurniture
Edited 7/26/2002 6:00:14 PM ET by Sgian Dubh