I can’t believe I’m the first to wonder how to do this, but I can’t find any previous postings, at least that are helpful. (Perhaps everyone else is just smarter than me, stranger things have happened 😉 )
Highland Hardware lists an adapter that sits under the saw, sandwhiched, I guess, between the saw and the legs. Then there is the back. If one never tilted the blade it seems a bit of 1/4″ ply or the like could be fabricated to tighten things up pretty nicely. That’s a big if. Perhaps attaching the ply with magnets would facilitate removing the ply when the blade had to be tipped?
TIA, Ed
Replies
I use a piece of 1/4" Foamboard to cover up the back of my contrators saw. I used an Xacto knife to cut slots for where the blade guard attachement and the fanbelt guard passes through and strengthend the edges of the cutouts with duct tape. The slots are cut tight enough so that I just wedge the Foamboard in place. Not elegant but it works pretty good. When I need to tilt the blade i just pull it out.
Ed,
I have a General Contractor's Saw in my basement and dust was a real problem. I did the following:
1. hardboard with magnets to cover the back (1/4 ply would work just as well)
2. a zero clearance insert for the blade
3. Dust Collect attached to the chute at the bottom of the saw
4. To cover the hole in the front of the saw that allows the depth adjuster to swing when the saw bevels, I cut a strip from a magnetic HVAC vent cover and placed it over the hole.
5. Finally, I went to Sears and picked up a $20 accessory that will turn the dust collector on automatically when the saw is turned on.
It took me a couple hours, but together, everything works well and the amount of escaping dust is negligible. Because my saw is in my basement, when I did a lot of ripping of plywood or any cutting of MDF, the entire basement was a mess. This definitely helped.
Frank R.
Hi All, Thanks for your comments - I've been off line doing computer system upgrade. Whoever said computers were going to simplify life sure got that wrong!
All of our web favorites got lost in the ether (We do still have this one's predecessor, so the really obscure can be resurrected ;-) )
Gboot stole my idea! <g> I made a foamboard thing, thinking it'd be a template for making on in plywood, but it worked so well I never made the ply plate. Easy to remove for tilted-blade stuff. I've seen one home-made one that left room for the motor to swing, but there was an awful lot of uncovered space there. Maybe you could make a 2-part plate, one with slot for the bars, and one that swings with them to keep the hole covered? I dunno, I like my little foam plate, and could make a different one for tilted sawing very easily.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
I used 2 inch foam rubber that fit tightly around the motor etc. Even if I tilted it, it just rubbed the belt a little and worked fine.Stevo
What did you buy from sears for $20 that turned on the DC automatically? I am very interested in that piece of hardware.
Although I am not the original poster, I'll jump in with the info.
The Craftsman "Current Tap" is item # 24031.73335.23479
It measures 4.25 S/S X 4.5 U/D X 1.5 Thick; rated 15 amp @ 125 VAC.It has three female outlets: one labeled "Power Tool" and two labeled "Accessory".
I have two of these units, one stays powered for my RAS, dedicated shop VAC and a parallel arm work light. The other one I take to job sites to use with a miterbox and another shop VAC.In use, the RAS is powered on at it's normal switch, the VAC and light come on milliseconds later. When the saw is powered off, both the VAC and light remain powered for a few seconds.TIP... If you have a 1 HP dust collector, there are remote switches available for Christmas lights (13 amps@125 VAC) that will act just like a Lone Ranger set-up. I have been using mine for a while with no problems. It hangs from the pull chain on the flush-mount CFan, for instant access. These are available at Big Box and local hardware stores in the $10.-$15. range.Arlington, Texas (The dash in Dallas-Fort Worth)
Practice...'till you can do it right the first time.
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