Who has one and do you like it? I am getting tired of walking across the shop every time i want to turn mine on.
Thanks
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast -
Our favorite articles and videos -
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
I got one designed for x-mas lights but works just fine for my DC, and it was only $9.95 on clearance from the depot. I use mine all the time, a remote on-off switch is the greatest thing since the invention of the wheel.
So you have a brand name that i can look for?
I went out to the shop and looked but no brand name, just "made in China". Typical home depot stuff. Check out this one on amazon.com :
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008X5D5/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
It is similar to mine, has good reviews, and is only $15.00.
Or you could spend a few more bucks and get a "real" dust collector remote:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_k?url=search-alias%3Dgarden&field-keywords=remote+dust+collector+switch
Either way, you will love having a remote controlled DC.
I have a Shop Fox (?) remote with two control switches. I keep one at the TS hanging near the power switch and the other one hanging on the wall at the other end of the workbench. I'm never more than 3-4 steps from one of them.
Do I like it? Is the Pope catholic?? - lol
I have one of the Christmas tree set ups. Mine is a Stanley, I picked up at BJ's for $7.99.
It's fine for running my shop vac on the jobsite but not much more.
120V 8 amp That's the rated output. Technically you can't even run a shop vac on it.
So no real machines I'm afraid.
I'm sure you xmas light remote is over-dutied.<!----><!----><!---->
When controlling motors you cannot assume a "15 amp rated switch" is fit for purpose.<!----><!---->
Your dust collector motor is an inductive load. It requires a more heavy duty switch than a switch for a resistive or incandescent load, (xmas lights, for example.) You would probably find, if the data was available, that your xmas light switch is suitable for switching a few amps, (1 or 2), of inductive load. <!----><!---->
If you are going to continue to use the xmas light switch I would suggest keeping a fire extinguisher close at hand and having your insurance policy in a place where you can grab it as you run out of your burning shop.<!----><!---->
Frankly, I don't understand a lot of woodworkers. They spend thousands of dollars on machines and then try to save $50.00 controlling them.<!----><!---->
My dad used to tell me, if a job is worth doing, it is worth doing well. I take that to heart in electrical installations too. You and the other knotheads, (no disrespect intended), can do what you want. I'm just sayin'...
You my friend have no sense of adventure!
I've been using the Long Ranger III for a little over a year now, it's the cat's meow. Different model needed for 110 and 220V. The are made by Penn State industries. The range is considerable, and they are unlikely to get intered with by other electronic items.
Don't be temped by cheap substitutions (Christmas tree remotes!? Sheesh). These are big, expensive motors that need the appropriate electrical companions.
"(Christmas tree remotes!? Sheesh)."
A little harsh, wouln't you say. The point of these fourms is to "try" and help people with advice or ideas on how to do things. If I have an idea or way of doing something that you don't agree with, thats fine, but try to be a little nicer when you tell me I'm an idoit for using a christmas light remote. I am not an expert by any means, I got the idea from a fellow woodworker, and he hasn't had any trouble with it and neither have I. I am running a small 650 cfm jet and it seems to be working just fine.
Maybe it seems a bit petty, but I guess it just rubbed me the wrong way. I'll let the "experts" here field questions from now on.
I do value your comments as well as the others. I dont know a lot about motors either so its good to hear about the issues one might have with a cheeper solution to a problem. Being one thrifty guy myself it will be worth a little more digging to see if the christmas tree remote will in fact cause any damage or if it will work just fine.
I do know that my DC does draw a grundle of power on start up,I have a small fan plugged in next to it and that thing nearly stops when ever i turn on the DC.
Here's a simple comparison.
Look at a standard 120V/15A light switch. Costs about 99 cents at HD.
View Image
Now look at a motor starting switch.
View Image
The toggle looks the same. But look at the size of the contacts. The motor starter switch is rated at 16 A. Only one amp over the wall switch but which one would you rather have on your equipment?
BTW. A couple of years ago. My good friends used a Christmas tree remote on their Christmas lights on the tree. They didn't exceed the the limits of the unit. But when we took down the tree. I noticed that the plug had melted. I don't know where they bought the remote but they won't be using one again.
Just some things to consider. The decision is ultimately up to you.
Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
Len,
Wow! That picture really hurts a visual learner like me. It actually says two things: 1. you need a lot more stuff for induction motors, 2. How come I paid about $15 for the equivalent of a $.99 switch...geees!Anyhow, sounds like I need something else in my shop...who was that masked man ...
BG,
I often forget how powerfull a picture can be. I've learned to walk the line or gap between artists and engineers. Glad it was of some help.Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
Nice. <!----><!----><!---->
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
Thanks for posting the pics and explanation, Len. I knew that, in the past, there have been several discussions about the differences between light-duty switches and the kind we need for the motors we use, but I just can't keep that stuff in the memory banks! only the general idea "Don't be cheap Jamie, it isn't worth it."forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forgot to mention that the motor starter switch is about $30.
The thing to remember is resistance. The smaller the wire, contact, or whatever the more resistance to the flow of electrons. What's the byproduct of resistance? Heat. A small surface area means the heat can't dissipate. (ie. smaller gauge wire) It just gets hotter. Until the wire or contact melts or catches something on fire.
BTW. Never solder a line voltage connector. If there is a heat build up it can melt the solder.Len
"You cannot antagonize and influence at the same time. " J. S. Knox
"Until the wire or contact melts or catches something on fire." The exact thing I'd be afraid of. Nick would never forgive me if I burned down the shop, 'cause Braden's Triumph is on blocks in the attached room!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I'm much more often accused of being "too nice" and "demanding" too much civility around here by the curmudgeons who prefer to simply blast someone or something as being ridiculous. So, I guess I fell off my pedestal, eh?..with "sheesh".
Electric stuff is nothing to fool with, as the consequences of mistakes can be unpleasant, if not dire. I've used Christmas electric accessories for a couple of things. Examples: The step-on swtch has been hooked up to a small-motor scroll saw; the timer (Dusk-dawn, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 hours) has been used to time my pellet stove's running times. In both instances, I checked the specs to make sure the items attached didn't exceed the specs on the accessory.
I have immediate and strong suspicion when hearing of using a Christmas light remote on a motor that might pull up to 18 amps when starting up. It'd be OK if it simply broke the remote switch instantly. But what if it degrades it over a period of time. Instinct tells me having a weak switch in an electrical path is not a good idea.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I went out and checked....mine is rated for 15 amps.
Seajai,
It sounds like yours is the same as mine with the 15amp rating. I bought it from the local hardware srore and it seens to work fine. The Ranger and Shop Fox are much better construction and will stand up to rough handling. I'm a single person shop..the environment is not so rough.I will testify that FG is one of the nicest people on this forum, however, she is a girl..and..unlike us guys, has little experience with remote controls (lol)
Did you check your DC motor also? What's stated on the motor for Amps?? My DC is 1.5HP Jet, I think the same motor (basically) as the table saw, so that's 18 amps. Not sure what it pulls at start-up, but pretty sure it's more than 18.
I'm no electric expert, which is one reason I err on the side of caution with these things. Remotes that are specifically made for the biggish motors on tools and dust collectors are almost certainly more rugged and trustworthy than something made for once-a-year use with a bunch of Christmas lights. Just my .02 forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie,
Off the subject of DC remotes and a moment of Christmas madness! Your post reminded me of the guys that work in the electrical department of my local hardware store. Every Christmas they have horror stories of people wanting extension cords with two male ends. (Lights strung up the tree backwards....) My friends have some endearing remarks to these customers like "... what, are you crazy or just stupid...?" "...ever heard of the Darwin Awards...?"
On a more serious note, I was badly shocked many years ago by a borrowed homemade extension cord. On another occasion I witnessed a HVAC repairman burned to a crisp while working on a panel. Electricity is dangerous. Always better to be safe than sorry no matter what the situation.
Best as always!
-Jerry
Hi, Nazard. I'm really quite humbled by electrical things and potential problems therein. That's why we paid big $$$ to have a pro wire my shop instead of doing it ourselves.
I had a scare years ago, late one evening in the antiques/collectibles store I owned at the time. Using a hair dryer to heat auction tags and pull them off merchandise before placing the things out for display. Turned the little dryer off, stepped away for a few seconds, came back and the darn thing was smoking. I unplugged it and it stopped.
Store was close to 2000 square feet in that incarnation. It was prime kindling had a fire started, and it would have wiped out us, a big bookstore and the Arts and Crafts gallery (top-drawer stuff) in the same building. No guessing how much of the rest of the block it would have taken, that building's been there since the 1930's I think.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You folks crack me up.
Yall must be workin in HUGE woodshops. Hell I almost trip on the blast gates jus gettin to the machine I want to use. Even then the dang DC is usually in the way so I flip the switch.
When I'm done with the dustmaker I let the DC run for a bit then shut it off ifn I'm done makin dust. If I'm gonna use another dustmaker, I jes open that ones blastgate and close the other cause mor'n likely it's on the way.
Now I will confess to havin a remote for the air cleaner. That's cuz it's about a 9' reach to the switch for that. I use to have a stepladder to climb up on but it kept fallin and afta gettin beaned on thuh noggin a dozen times I smartened up.
'Sides the crash helmet kept gettin in the way tryin to put on me respirator thang. If you guys figger out a way to get all them 'chines to work by theyownseff.............
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 5/19/2008 11:37 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
Listen to Forest Girl. Buy the right tool for the job. I have a long ranger for my 1.5 hp motor also. It works through a block wall, and is designed to work with motors in a dusty enviorment. I don't profess to know the engineering, but motors require different types and capacity for the switch. The insurge load is high on a motor. Having a small switch will either ruin the motor or the switch over time. Neither of which (sparks) is a good thing around dust.
AZMO
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
I got mine from wood craft and love it. I have two remotes and have them attached to my jointer and TS (located at opposite sides of the shop. I have them close to the on switches. There is only two other big pieces I use (BS & RAS), and they are within a couple steps of either switch. They have a little clip so sometimes If I know I'm going to be moving a bit, I'll clip it to my belt loop. I liked this one because of the size of the remote. It's the size of a car key fob. They have two versions. They have a 110 version and a 220 version(thats the one I needed). So you are covered.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5117
BTW, the base and remote are configurable (dip switches) so you could run two units with different frequencies if needed.
If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it.
And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Edited 5/10/2008 10:59 am by bones
I'm with Forest Girl and AZMO on the Long Ranger. I use mine on a 3HP 220V dust collector (once from 200 feet, just to see if it was true to its name).
It's a great time and step saver.
"step saver"
I know I'm jumping in the middle here but once your DC is turned on, do you still have to open a blast gate? If so, why not wire the whole thing to start when any blast gate is opened and turn off when it's closed?
Regards,
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Mack--
Yes, I do still have to open and close blast gates, and it's a royal pain!
Next step is the gates that control the DC. I guess I bought my Long Ranger before the automatic gates came on the market.
FOR ALL: Does anyone have a wiring diagram for gates to control a DC to work with a 220V, 3HP collector?
My address is [email protected]
kreuzie,
I won't get back to my shop until 5/16 but if no one else responds sooner I can draw a diagram for what I have. My DC is a 3 HP Grizzly unit and it does operate on 220V. I think I can come up with part numbers for the switches and the relay also.
Don't rush out and buy those automatic gates just yet! LOL
Regards,
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Mack--
Thanks!
I thought this system was neat.
http://www.ecogate.com/home-comercial/home-comercial.htm#brochures
Cut on your tool, and the dust gate opens and the dC comes on. How's that!
Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
Edited 5/13/2008 11:22 am by bones
Bones--
Thanks!
Count my vote for the long ranger from Penn State. I hang the clip on my shop apron and whenever operating my equipment which is attached to the DC (TS, BS, Jointer, wide belt sander, planer), simply push the on button and the dust goes where it belongs, the dust collector. Not just that, but if you have to walk to the DC to turn it on, half the time you're gonna get lazy and not use it when you should. No brainer for me. PMM
Ditto to all that, Matty! I was forever skipping the dust collection for one quick cut and another before I got the Long Ranger. Only problem I had was when I clipped the control to my jeans pocket, kept bumping it on accidentally. Now I wear shirts with pockets, LOL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I bought my remote switch (110 Volt) at Rockler and have the remote hanging in the middle of my shop, right near the table saw. I think it is great. Wish I had gotten it sooner.
I have one that came with my Oneida system, but what I really want are the automatic gates. Man, that would be the caterpillar's spats.
"Man, that would be the caterpillar's spats." Even better than the bee's knees, eh?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Yes, I've really lusted over those. But as I recall it would have increased the cost by about 5 or 6 hundred bucks at the time. It's probably more costly than that now, too, not to mention a ton of wiring issues. Do you have them?
Blew
I made my own automatic gates. I saw the ones that are commercially available but they are pretty pricey. I made my gates out of 1/4" PVC and put a micro-switch on each one. I have a relay that starts the DC motor when any blast gate is opened and shuts it off when they're all closed.
A friend of mine who was an aviation electrician drew up the diagram for me in about 5 min. and I put it together with no problems at all.
The relay controls the 220V for the DC motor but operates on 120V. It needs to be sized for the DC motor; mine is 3 HP. The micro-switches need to handle 120v as well.
The micro-switches are wired in series and connect the relay to ground. Opening a gate breaks the gound, activates the relay and starts the DC motor. The micro- switches were about $6 each and the relay was about $40 IIRC. It's a sweet system and has been in operation for several years with absolutely no glitches what-so-ever. I'm sure you could retro-fit the switches onto almost any blast gate and installing the relay would be pretty easy.
Regards,
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Mack, you're so far advanced from where I am, it's like comparing a sewing machine to an IPOD. I envy people who can figure this stuff out.
Blew,
Thanks for the kind words but I really didn't figure anything out. I got the idea on the blast gates from one friend, the wiring diagram from another and just built it.
Regards,
Mack
"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
My system is similar to what you describe, but it uses low voltage magnetic switches instead of the micro switches. These are the simple little things that you find in the home security systems that are drilled into the door frame (about $5 each). They're wired in parallel so that you can add them as needed around the shop.
When the magnet gets close to the sensor, it trips the switch and triggers the relay, which starts the DC. If you make wooden blast gates (just sandwiched layers of smooth wood), they're simple to install by just drilling holes in the edge of the blast gate such that the magnets line up when the gate is open all the way.
Scag_man,
That's pretty slick!
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, S--T IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
"My system is similar to what you describe, but it uses low voltage magnetic switches instead of the micro switches. These are the simple little things that you find in the home security systems that are drilled into the door frame (about $5 each). They're wired in parallel so that you can add them as needed around the shop.
When the magnet gets close to the sensor, it trips the switch and triggers the relay, which starts the DC. If you make wooden blast gates (just sandwiched layers of smooth wood), they're simple to install by just drilling holes in the edge of the blast gate such that the magnets line up when the gate is open all the way. "
What is the relay switch? How is it constructed to accept the magnetic sensor that's its been closed?
Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
The relay is from Penn State, but it's not the remote control version. See it at http://www.pennstateind.com/store/lrmset220.html . I bought just the relay, but not the gates that come with it. Although to keep it simple, you can just buy their gates (system price $60). I chose to make my own gates since they're more airtight. The magnetic switches were the easiest thing I could think of as opposed to some sort of mechanism.
Anyway, the magnetic switches are just like any other switch...they're either closed or open (on or off). The only difference is that instead of mechanically switching them on or off, they turn on when the magnet gets close and off when it's removed. The relay doesn't care whether you're using a mechanical switch or magnetic switch.
The only problem I had was that because of the inductive load, I had to put a cheap diode across the connection to keep them from arcing shut.
Here's a picture of one of the several "counter-top" gates opened so you can see how they're made. I have a few of these on my worksurfaces for quick clean up. Open them up and the DC turns on and brush in the sawdust!
Toooo Coool skag man. If you sweep a screw or such in there what prevents it from going into the DC. Do you have a cylcone type that drop the material out before the impeller?
AZMO
<!----><!----><!---->
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
All of the pipes go upward to the ceiling joist then across to the DC, so any metal fragments that do accidently go in can't lift upward. They settle in the horizontal sections. Every once in a while, I'll take apart the sections and pull out the screws. None of the pipes are glued...just sealed with masking tape.
Sounds like my system, large pipe, screwd together, easy to clean out if needed. I just sweep to a floor sweep, and all the fines go up to the DC and it leaves a nice sorted pile of screws and bits. I so have to work on this automated system to open gates and turn on the DC, that would be oh so nice. Having the DC out of my work space along with the compressor did worlds for my enjoyment also. Noise is a killer.
You know a guy asked a question this week about an undergroud ABS systemhttp://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages/?msg=40834.11 and I advised him to seriously think about going underground, and if nothing else provide some access points. I got jumped a bit for that, go figure. Plan for the worst and when it happens you can fix it....
AZMO <!----><!----><!---->
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
I'm with you on the underground. Not only would your design/layout be locked in forever, but of course something would go wrong. I'd rather use a ladder to get at my joist-run lines than get a jackhammer after my under-concrete lines! Perhaps you could hire a hamster repair crew to get in there and fix it up.
Scag,
You know there is a special guy here in Phoenix that will go down inside pipe lines to do an inspection and do repair work from the inside. Mostly works on larger diameter pipes than we have for DC, but his minimum is 14" wide. Of course the guy is a wee one, stands 3'6" high, but the thought of going into a pipe head first with a rope tied on to pull me out.... Well that gives me shivers so deep..... just can't go there ya know.
Hampsters maybe, but really I think a trained professional crew of Beavers would work better, teeth are better at grindin away.
LOL AZMO <!----><!----><!---->
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
Ever consider using your dust collector gates to turn on your dust collector? It's simpler than using a remote since it saves a step. DC runs when the gates open...turns off when you close the gate. If you're interested, let me know and I'll explain how it's done safely.
I'm with Forestgirl (Hi Jamie!) The long Ranger III is the way to go. I have a second remote. One is placed adjacent to the start on my TS and one is attached to my router table (both can be removed if neccesary of course).
Making a cut on the table saw has now become a 2 switch operation. Turn on the DC...start the saw. Second nature now. No more ""oh just this one quick cut without the DC" BS.....
Worth the money.
Brian
Wisky, I know I am jumping in late and have not read all the replies but thought I'd weigh in. I second the reply you got from Forestgirl. I have two DC's and just got the last one this year. On is a Delta and the other is a Penn State. I have one attached to the on/off switch of my PM2000 and the other is clipped to the work apron. I have had the first one for at least 5 years without even having to change the battery. It has amazing range. I do not know about the second, but I assume it has the same long range.
I have only had one "problem" and that ws getting them on totally different frequencies. Their instructions for doing that is quite simple. The main thing is that I had to take one a long way from the other while setting frequencies. If you only need one, that is not a problem.
They are about $50 and well worth the price.
You did not say if your DC has a magnetic switch or not.
On my last collector I had a remote and loved it. Recently I purchased the new JDS 3hp collector which has a magnetic switch and was told that I cannot use a remote with it.
http://www.superwoodworks.com
Gary, didn't JDS give you a mechanical switch in a separate box and the mag mounted on the machine? They did with my 3hp. Paddy
A remote DC switch requires very simple wiring. If you've got lotsa gates, automating them cam be a big wiring job. 120 volt wiring requires NFPA compliance. That'll run into money even if you can find a Sparky.
For those who like to recycle stuff, the 24 volt system that connects your thermostat with the AC will work. The switch out at the compresspr that handles all those heavy amps is called the contactor. When an AC gets replaced that contactor is part of what goes to salvage. You will also need the 24 volt transformer. That may or may not be on the salvage unit. The 24 volt light wire that connects the gate switches and the contactor are a beeeze to run. You're on your own with the gate switches but they're not going to have to carry 120 volts.
BJGardening, cooking and woodworking in South'n Murlyn'
No, I only received the mag switch and it was not mounted. This is the brand new 3HP cyclone one that just came out about 1 month ago.
I asked if i could use the remote they sell for 220 volt and they said no.
View Imagehttp://www.superwoodworks.com
G, looks like they changed the game but they did put it on a wheeled platform and a large drum--all good. You could still get a mechanical switch ? Did they say you can't or just that your's can't as it is set up? They may have the other switch as a spare part unless they want too much for it. Any of the big supply houses would have one to that spec of volts/amps . Mine is very heavy and it took four of us to stand it up -just- any we were worried. Have you run it yet? Paddy
I got me a long bit of stuff, put a hook on the end, works great, didn't cost me a cent. ;-)
It really is not a problem. I think its better that the collector is not turned on and off frequently. The collector has an automatic cleaning system for the filter. When the machine is turned off a separate motor starts that turns a beater inside the filter which causes the fine dust for fall down into the plastic bag below the filter. It is annoying to listen to when the machine is shut down, but very effective.
Most of the system is hooked up an really seems to work well. The chip barrel is a breeze to unhook from the machine.
http://www.superwoodworks.com
Edited 5/19/2008 8:23 am ET by Garry
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled