Replies

1. 
   bones | Dec 13, 2011 09:38am | #2

   what about the wire?

   since it just started happening and been fine for a long time something is amis.  First thought could be the lugs on the breaker were loose.  Seen that one before.  Over the years heat/cooling can loosen things up.  A good tighten could have done the trick. 

   You indicate you changed the breaker and put in a larger one 20 to replace a 15A.  Did you already have 20A rated wire(12awg)  and 20A recepticles and a 20A rated plug.   If you had a 15A breaker unless you did ithe wiring, normally an electrician would put in 14awg wire to go with a 15A breaker and have 15a recepticles.  If you do not have the proper wire for the breaker you are creating a fire hazzard and if it were to occur the insurance company could use it against you in a clam. 

      If 15A breaker worked for years it makes no sense it would suddenly need more amps on start up.  Motor could have an issue.    I'd also take out that remote starter and plug it directly in just to eliminate that as an issue as well.   Good luck

1. 
   hotmop | Dec 13, 2011 02:07pm | #4

   bones, thanks for the input. As mentioned, the 20 amp breaker was just an experiment. Did to troubleshoot if it was the breaker. The outlet is 20amp rated and the wire is 12g so i'm good there anyway. 

   Starting to think it has to be the starter capacitor. Though it doesn't look cooked, it's the only thing I can think of that could marginally fail and cause this. 

2. 
   hotmop | Dec 13, 2011 02:02pm | #3

   not the outlet

   Tried an extension cord (16', heavy gauge) to a different circuit and no difference. Pops the 15 amp breaker about halfway through startup.  

3. 
   PeteBo | Jan 01, 2012 07:15pm | #5

   Mine stopped too

   I have a Delta dust collector Model 50-850 and it stopped working too.  

   Diagnosis: Fried winding.  Cause: Unknown.  Resolution: Get another dust collector.

   My symptoms were it ran fine on 220V for years until I used it one day about 3 hours straight and when I was done I noticed that the motor was excessively hot, well above 100degC.  The impeller wasn't stuck as it coasted to a stop.  After it cooled down it wouldn't start but blew the on motor breaker repeatedly.  The start and run caps both looked a little melted.  Their was a smell of burnt windings when I opened the motor up a bit.  I wasn't sure if the windings were toast, or what caused it.  My motor rebuild experts didn't know if the caps blew roasting the start coil, of if a cooked winding heated the caps to melting.  We were both surprised at how the start switch was fully exposed on this so called TEFC motor.  The seals around the electrical boxes on the motor allowed dust to enter the motor too.  Not that either of these were the cause of the problem.  I haven't tried replacing the caps but with a straw was able to blow the fresh smell of toasted windings out of the motor via one of its many electrical wiring ports.

   Here are more details if you care:

   I questioned if I had overfilled it.  That wasn't the problem since the more full it gets, the less the motor actually works.  Like when you stop a vacuum cleaner, it runs faster because it is working less hard.

   Diagnosis on web:

   http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Delta_Dust_Collector_Motor_Issue.html

   Start cap issues.  $30 replacement.

   http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Delta_Dust_Collector_Motor_Issue.html

   Sounds like my symptoms.  No really good advise but others have the problem.

   Call Delta  1-800-223-7278-3

   Check the voltage at the socket with DC off.  It should be 220. Not 208.  208 would allow it to run but could cause excess current draw that would have produce the symptoms. [Mine was 220V even with the TS running on the same circuit]

   He confirmed that the lower bag should be emptied when it is about 3/4 full.  Mine is near there.

   He confirmed that the system would be worked less if the filters were plugged, or the lower bag full etc so that is not my problem.

   He confirmed that there was no thermal cut out.

   He said the circuit breaker would have not necessarily opened under low voltage over current conditions.

   He confirmed that only a start capacitor was employed so that is not my problem. [I don't think he was right here.  I had two caps, a start and a run.]

   I said there was no physical restrictions on the impeller as it continued to inflate the bags for about half a minute after power was pulled.

   Update 8/26/2011: Wagner Electric says the motor has both start and run caps and motor is Metric but he doesn't carry metric motors.

   Start cap: 200uF cap 1346527 $12.85 in stock and run cap: 30uF  Cap part number 1346563 $19.78 Type III is not in stock.

   He suggested motor replacement given the smell of burnt windings in the motor.  New these are $416.39 904199

   No recalls or warrantee issues that he knows of.

4. 
   CharlieL | Mar 07, 2012 04:11pm | #6

   Deleted

1. 
   hotmop | Dec 12, 2011 07:16pm | #1

   All good ideas.

   I've tested with no remote. I can try with new extension and different outlet. The outlet box was recently displaced due to work on the concrete wall it was mounted on. There is nothing else on this circuit. I wired it to it's breaker as a new branch. 

   Understood on the oversized breaker advice. It was only an experiment and will be swapped back out. 

   Checked the capacitors and they look fine. Nothing broken, leaking or toasted looking. 

   I'll follow up more as I find.