Dust Collection: That FIRST connection
forestgirl
| Posted in General Discussion on
I’ve been using the 6x4x4 Y-connector that came with the Jet 1.5HP dust collector. While things aren’t where I can put in permanent piping yet, I still want to get some rigid pipe in. Should start with having 6″ pipe as much as possible. So, verrrrry specific question here: Will the A part of the Y-fitting below fit right into the “mouth” of the dust collector? Also, for those who have a DC like mine, where the intake is just above the floor, what combination of fittings did you use to get from that mouth and up the wall a little bit without loosing too much air flow???
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Replies
Hi Forestgirl,
The question isn't quite clear, but I'm feeling a bit fuzzy from a lot of traveling to Vermont.
If possible, stay with all 6" at least as far as the the first machine. The 6" to 4" "Y" fitting will cut air flow, only use it if you must branch off right at the machine. If you must use a "Y" a 6" to 6" or 6" to 5" would be better.
To gain height, angle up from the machine at 30 to 45 degrees, then use straight pipe to get to the height you want and then level off with another 30 or 45 degree elbow rather than using 90 degree bends.
The crimped end of the duct pipe should fit inside the fitting on the DC but there are no guarantees with air duct and stove pipe, specs and tolerances are all over the place.
John W.
You want that first connection to be a straight, rigid pipe, about 30" long if you can. That wye connection will produce turbulance. No way around it. BTW, I have a Woodsucker cyclone, and do as I say not as I do. And my first pipe is 8" long, then immediately elbows down. There is a dropoff effect, but not a lot, and the 2HP cyclone is connected to a 6" rigid pipe installation, with very little flex. But a straight first run is best.
Here are some pics showing what I did with my system. The whole is connected to an Oneida 2HP in the next room. The total run to the jointer is about 40 feet and even at that length it really sucks. Hope this helps.
Peter
p.s. that General 6" jointer will be for sale when I get the 8" one. In case you are interested.
Jeez Louise, that's a huge hose going to the jointer. It'll be gret for your 8" model when you get it. (I'm equipped with a Jet jointer, thanks for the heads-up though).
The Oneida and other cyclones have their intake up high. The challenge with systems like mine is that the intake is about 8" off the floor, trying to get up the wall without taking up a bunch of room or using radical bends in the pipe. Looks like it's going to be a matter of relocating both the dust collector location and the table saw at this point. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You could always mount the dust collection blower and housing higher. It doesn't have to be configured the way it came from the factory.
I gave casual thought to that one evening, but didn't really think it through. I'll take a look again. You sure there's no tag reading "Federal offense to remove this tag or otherwise modify........" LOL.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
If you are going to mount your pipes at ceiling height, then it is as simple as taking the entire dust collector, removing the casters, and turning it over. Attach it to the ceiling through the old caster holes, or make a long legged stand to mount it in. Then take the round bag section and turn it back over to keep it oriented the same as when it sat on the floor with the conical flange inside points down. Might want to enlist the aid of some people with strong backs to lift and hold while you do the bolting etc. ;-)I remember an article or tip (Fine Homebuilding I think) where the base of the dust collector was removed and the rest mounted on a wood or cement base 3' or so higher. The bottom of the bottom bag was removed and a barrel or garbage can replaced it. When the can was full it was taken out to be dumped and the bags stayed attached to the dust collector. That installation put the inlet higher and made cleaning easier for him.
Mine is a cannister filter Jet, plastic bag on bottom, cannister on top. Somehow it seems counter-intuitive to be turning it upside down. I have, however, looked at the motor and hose mount stuff and am thinking I could probably raise that up further away from the floor. (Thanks to TomW above!!!!)
[Pic courtesty of Taunton Publishin]
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forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 4/9/2007 1:00 am by forestgirl
I had the same unit years ago. Unbolt the motor and blower assy and it can easily be bolted to the wall at whatever height the inlet is convenient, then run that small section of flex hose to it. I actually had mine bolted directly to the top of a homemade cyclone for several years ntil I moved to a larger shop and upgraded to a larger system.
I can't tell you how grateful I am that you and TomW hit me over the head with the idea of moving the guts of the thing. I actually had some vague thought about that late one evening (I tend to work into the wee hours sometimes), but was too sleepy to really ponder the idea, and pretty much forgot about it. I owe you both a smoked salmon!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Peter,
I am going to rework my DC. I now use only 4" flex. I have connections for my jointer, planer, router table, table saw and band saw. It services any tool I am using so air flow is not now a problem. I do, however want to use rigid pipe down the wall with metal blast gates and flex to the machine. So far, I have only checked with Lowes and HD and they do not cary the metal "stove pipe'.
I am looking for suggestions as to where I can get the pipe.
I currently do not have DC to my SCMS. I saw another forum where Forestgirl has a hood for hers and I intend to persue that infro from her later.
I got mine through a heating and ventilation contractor. The DC has a 7" input duct and as it happened he had a bunch of that size left over from another job. It is a bit of an odd size and he was happy to get rid of it at a good price. I also used his company to make the fittings I needed.Believe me it was worth it to get the job done by pros.Cheers,Peter
Peter, where did you get that larger flex hose? I looked at a few places online today, and didn't see anything bigger than 4".
I sometimes read warnings about not using HVAC pipe for dust collection, but you seem to be doing fine with it. Isn't it the thing about "if you happened to close all the blast gates....." Can't quite imagine that happening! Seems like there'd always be something open to feed the DC.
I'm probably going to use S&D (sewer and drain) pipe. Such a small system and not exactly permanent (I hope). Thanks for the pics!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
It was a while ago. Ah! I found where I got it...http://www.spiralmfg.com/flex1f.htm. Oneida recommends metal pipe for the runs. All big cities have sheet metal shops and manufactures of spiral pipe. I cannot imagine why it would not be recommended. "if you happened to close all the blast gates....." Hmm, you have blast gates in whatever type of system you use with a central DC. That in itself would not make any difference. And if you ever do close them all (closing one to go open one for to the tool you will be using) the sound of the DC will tell you. It REALLY sounds sick :-)On the subject of the gates, make sure you get the metal ones. In my previous system I had the plastic things and they were always clogging. Never had that problem with the metal gates.The company listed above is really neat. They have ALL sorts of things and good information.Cheers,Peter
Holy Cow! Thanks! Great site.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Morning FG...
Call Penn State @ 800-656-4767 and ask them to send you a catalog or http://www.pennstateind.com .......
They have everything you want in 7"-6" down in both plastic flex pipe or spiral metal. You can even get economy metal pipe in 26 gauge as that is all you need for your HP. Whatever connections or anything else under the sun you want for a collection system they have also.
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Edited 4/9/2007 12:00 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47
I sent them an email to find out how to order, or from whom to order retail, since I didn't see any prices on their web site.
As to the other stuff. What I've seen is cautions against using light-weight HVAC ducting as opposed to the pipe that's made for sucking systems such as a big cyclone DC. The thickness of the metal, how it holds up against collapse.
Will keep the cautions about blast gates in mind. Right now, plastic is the material of choice because everything's temporary and I'm not running huge quantities through a tool at any given time. I was hoping to do a complete rigid system this summer, but we have so many home-improvement projects lined up, it's getting a little iffy.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
It would have to very light weight HVAC. Were they referring to low pressure/low volume rectangular ducting by any chance? Spiral construction should be strong enough for the psi associated with our wee systems. see http://www.spiralmfg.com/downloads/physical_properties.pdfCheers,Peter
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