Replies

1. 
   KeithNewton | May 25, 2006 12:00am | #1

   Tim, for air drying into lumber, or keeping my cross-sections for turning, I usually just use white latex primer. If you are going to send it through a kiln though, most pro's say to use anchorseal. an end-coating just for this purpose.

1. 
   bps | May 25, 2006 01:30am | #2

   Eith, thanks for the reply. Let me add more info. I live outside Denver, high desert and groosly low humidity. I would like to use this wood for furniture, end tables etc. Should it be debarked and waxed or just end coated? This is new terrain for me, so thanks for the help.

1. 
   KeithNewton | May 25, 2006 05:31am | #3

   De-barking is almost always a good idea, in that leaving it on will invite insect infestation. Luckly, if the tree is still living, Spring is the easiest time to peel the bark.Of all of the fruit-woods that I have seen, apple is one of the least exciting. Of course the sap-wood is white, and the heart is cream, and fairly uniform in texture, and I don't think it has much rot or bug resistance. At least here in Arkansas, most of the large ones seem to be hollow.End coating is all that should be necessary, but if you can store it with stickering between layers, if you start to notice and surface checking: like when it is really hot and dry for a period: you can cover the stack with a tarp or plastic sheeting intermittenly; to slow it down for a day or so at a time. I don't know if that is likely or not, but going too slow on some of the white woods can cause blue-stain under the stacking sticks.Be sure to use dry soft wood for your stickering material. Something like 3/4" x 1" is fine. Don't go wider than about 1.5", because going too wide will also cause sticker stain.