I am going to be making a round drop leaf table so I will be doing 3 glue ups out of 4/4 rough cherry and I need some help with the glue up itself.I am reading the new finewoodworking by Bob Van Dyke on table tops.He says that rift sawn glue edges will stay flat which concerns me where the leaves will just be hanging.I have heard that alternating the grain will keep the top flat but that approch does not seem to give a very good grain match on the top,so I need some help so I will know what to look for at the lumber company.
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Alan, the question of how to lay out a table top is one that every experienced woodworker has done many times, and we each gradually develop a "comfort zone" with what seems to work for us. So take what I say as merely my own subjective set of ground rules.
Quartersawn material will give you the most stable layout, but if you have flat or riftsawn material, then it depends on several factors. Alternating the grain pattern is a way of having each board negate its neighbors. In effect, you don't get a flat surface but a slightly wavy one which over its width remains more or less straight. The narrower you rip the boards, the more this wave approximates a straight line.
The more you use wide,flatsawn material, the more critical it becomes that it is thoroughly dried and uniform so that all the pieces will react in a similar way to changes in MC.
It also depends on the apron details - how much can you depend on them to restrain the top? Overall I tend to make tables with serious aprons, and I rely on that fact to keep the top within reasonable bounds.
Speaking in general, I try to pick the best set of boards I can, lay them out purely for the best visual effect, then make changes if I feel that it's going to stretch the parameters too much. A "change" might mean ripping a piece in two and flipping one part over, etc. Or re-arranging the order somewhat to get a more balanced "wave".
Hope this helps more than it adds to the confusion...
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1
thanks for the info,on another note could you tell me any tips on how to locate rule joint hinges.
One place is Lee Valley, see here. Many other places will have them as well.
Bruce"A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan
Alan,
The following two links have some information making a rule joint.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dq9EjzLEh04
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ftjdy8GZ06Y
Rob Millardhttp://www.americanfederalperiod.com
Alan,
If the board remained flat (or nearly so) in process of going from a tree with high moisture content, to a board dry enough for furniture, it will do fine in your project, where the humidity swings will be far less.
I arrange boards in a top for the best appearance, using as few individual boards as possible (full width if possible), paying no attention to the growth rings. You want to look for color, grain pattern match and reflectivity .
Rob Millard
No EXPERT..
Riff sawn is OK I think.. Sort of Quarter Saw but hard to match the grain.. I have no real idea but I have used Riff sawn wood sometimes.. I for one have never had ANY problems with glue-ups... Grain matching a another matter...
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