Replies

1. 
   RichinVA | Oct 15, 2009 01:31pm | #1

   Yes, you would want the drill in the tailstock. I use one of these:

   http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Lathe_Accessories___Drill_Chucks___Keyless_Chuck___keyless_chuck?Args=

   Doesn't a Beaver have a #1MT?

   Drill S-L-O-W-L-Y, especially with Forstner bits, and back the bit out often to clean out the bit/hole. I lock the tailstock and hold my hand on the chuck to lessen the chance for the bit to wander. Sometimes they will no matter what you do. Start with the tailstock spindle as withdrawn as you can to lessen the flex of the shaft. Start a center hole in your work with the point of a skew to find dead center for your bit.

   Do a search for making/drilling peppermills, lots of good drilling info there.

   A chuck would be almost a necessity for holding the work while drilling. In theory, the bit could act as the tail center while using a spur drive, but in practice I'm not sure it would work well. Something to try, for sure. I'm sure folks drilled stuff on the lathe prior to chucks, not sure I'd want to..............

   Hope this helps.

   Rich

   
   

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   Edited 10/15/2009 6:33 am ET by Richard Jones

2. 
   jako17 | Oct 15, 2009 03:33pm | #2

   It is may be possible to drive with a spur and drill but it is very likely to fly off.If you don't have a chuck, how about using a faceplate ,making a jam chuck ,screw centre etc.I have modified a spur drive by boring out the point and fitting a 1/2 "piece of 5/16" rod .That way it drives but cannot easily spin off.I did it to use a 5/16"by 30" shell auger for drilling standard lamps coloumns.With the above methods you will have to have some waste at the headstock end of the lathe.All lathe work needs is inginuity and to accept the fact you create the tool you need from what you can purchase . It is a different mind set and somewhat crude compared with plane fettling.  Read other posts and note, that drilling end grain with a twist drill tends to wander,grinding a sharper angle on the drill can help  and most important start with a centre drill pilot hole as mentioned above.  Stay safe and wear a face shield if you feel threatend Jako

1. 
   old saw | Oct 15, 2009 04:32pm | #3

   A headstock chuck is always nice, but no, you don't have to have one for drilling tool handle blanks such as chisel handles.  You can do it with a spur center in the headstock, but it's an iffy proposition under power.  If you try it before rough-turning the blank to a cylinder, you're liable to get your hands hurt.  You could revolve the headstock and blank by hand to drill the hole.   Your best bet, however, would be to invest in an inexpensive screw center for the headstock and mount the blank on that.

   If you want to drill under power using a spur center in the headstock,  first turn the piece between centers to a rough cylinder using a dead center in the tailstock or mounted in the tailstock drill chuck.  Then you will have a center for the drill to start in and the cylinder can revolve loosely in your fingers.  It would be handy to have a third hand or a foot-operated switch on your lathe for this operation.  Do wear face protection for this if done under power.

1. 
   JulianBE | Oct 16, 2009 02:47am | #4

   Thanks all for these helpful messages. I was so tied up with clever ideas I never thought of something as simple as turning the spindle by hand. Down to the workshop!

3. 
   AndyE | Oct 28, 2009 11:25pm | #5

   Check these out. I ordered mine from here.

   http://lathemaster.com/Drill%20Chucks.htm

   Andy
4. 
   TomHigby | Oct 29, 2009 02:54am | #6

   I've done many tool handles using a spur drive.  I usually leave an inch or so of waste for the spur, complete the turning and finish with wax, apply the ferule , then bore for the tool tang.  I start with a small bit in the tail-stock chuck, then move step-wise to larger bit,depending on the size of the tang.  I use very hard wood, often from tree-trimming.  I haven't had trouble with a wandering hole.  The waste wood at the spur center can then be cut off, and the end rounded and polished.

   Tom

5. 
   philip | Oct 29, 2009 11:33am | #7

   As other have said, a spur drive will suffice but it can be tricky the first few times you do it that way as you need to hold the piece with one hand and feed the tailstock with the other.But the principle is correct ie the work piece is turned against the stationary drill bit which ensures it goes straight.
   There are a couple of alternatives such as
   1) An engineers type chuck such as a 3 jaw self centering type either on a taper or with back plate threaded to suit your Beaver head stock spindle-this would grip your chisel handle etc well.
   2)If you had lots of similar handles to make you could make a face plate drive which could either have a square section recess to suit the unturned part of the billet from which the handle is turned, or a hole , slightly tapered into which top end of the handle is driven to make a friction drive- this one is good because the work is always automatically centred. Number 2 costs nothing provided you have a face plate for that lathe.

   Philip Marcou