I can now see an old drawknife where the rust used to be, and need to make a handle to fit the tang. Is there a special trick to a drawknife handle, since it’s pulled during use, in contrast to most tool handles?
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Replies
I got a draw knife that was close to a garage fire and had charred handles. I took them off, made new ones and made the length so that the tang came through the handle about 3/16". I then took small fender washers and squared up the holes so they would fit nicely over the tangs. I then tapped the washers down nice and snug to the handle and peened the remainder of the tang over like a rivet. This works really well! It's no good if the tool is considered a collectable but it sure works for a user!
Regards,
Mack
"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Thanks, I guess I'll do that. The tang is a bit shorter than I'd like the handle, so I was wondering whether there was another option.
>> ... I was wondering whether there was another option.
Epoxy.
AlanS,
The epoxy rec. by Unc. will work real well; I've repaired a couple of my MIL's garden tools with it and she hasn't broken them (which is an incredible testimonial!).
You could also get a couple long steel rivets and go through the handle and tang from the side and countersink the rivet into the handle on both sides.
Regards,
Mack"WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"
Thanks all. I posted because I hadn't found discussion of handles in Bob Smalser's post on drawknives in this forum, but I've found a follow-up that that mentions handles in a different forum with the key point that heat will release the epoxy if needed. Here it is: http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=009003&p=
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