Replies

1. 
   BG | Nov 07, 2005 06:18pm | #1

   Farkel,
   Usually what that means to me is my carcas is cockeyed one way by 1/32" and the drawer cockeyed the other way by 1/32"...sigh.

2. 
   notDusty | Nov 07, 2005 06:37pm | #2

   Farkel ,

                 All the time , or all the drawers in one stack or the whole job is doing that is what it sounds like ? As has been said the opening or the drawer box itself may be out of square . How much smaller then the opening did you make the drawer box's ?If you are too tight or too loose you can have this problem . Try shimming the back of the side that's out on the rear couple of inches of the slide . use a shim to find out what you need . Sometimes I have had to shim the front end of the slides also , but not as often . In the real world not everything is square , do you make sure your drawer box's are square when you build them ??

              good      luck             dusty

                 

1. 
   Farkel | Nov 07, 2005 07:42pm | #3

   Lets put it this way: My work is as square as I can get it, which probably means it is off by no more than 1/32 as suggested above. This is a chronic problem for me on most projects, and it is bizarre that the problem is usually on the right. Shimming sometimes helps a little bit, and I will focus on that a little more. I really do try to get my work square, and someday, I probably will. In the meantime, are there other slides that are more forgiving?

1. 
   GaryW | Nov 07, 2005 07:56pm | #4

   Are your carcases of plywood? If so, don't count on the sheet being square, because they often aren't. If you're using a table saw, setting the fence to dimension pieces, the out-of-square sheet will translate into out-of-square pieces.

   Check for squareness by first insuring the sides and ends are exactly parallel, and then if the diagonals are exactly equal. If the sheet isn't square, make it so with an accurate crosscut sled of another divice you're familiar with. If you can't square up the whole sheet, rip pieces to a bit over dimension and then square those.Gary

   gwwoodworking.com

2. 
   notDusty | Nov 07, 2005 11:18pm | #5

      Farkel ,

                  You said Accuride , but you did not say which ones you are using . Some slides are way more forgiving then others . Some have a bit more slack or slop or forgiveness built into them , even in the Accuride line . Sometimes the plywood is square but warped and has a curve in partition walls surrounding drawer stacks.

               dusty

3. 
   mudman | Nov 08, 2005 12:35am | #6

   did you set the slides back the requesite 1/8" inch? or are they set flush to the front?

   Mike

1. 
   Farkel | Nov 08, 2005 06:46am | #7

   Normally, I set the drawers back the recommended 1/8" which is great because it gives a comfortable margin for error, but for this project, I want the the drawers flush. I have been playing around with the slides, and now they are close enough that I can live with it. The bottom right hand corner of each drawer protrudes a very little bit. Being the only woodworker in my family/neighborhood/town, This is one of those things that only I will notice. (That should be the worst of my problems.) I design my own furniture and I get your point: lose the flush drawers whenever possible.

1. 
   mudman | Nov 09, 2005 07:17am | #11

   I am not talking about the drawer being set back 1/8" into the frame. The slides are suposed to be installed (both the slide and the track) 1/8 or so back from the edge.

   Mike

1. 
   Farkel | Nov 09, 2005 05:22pm | #12

   I put the slides on the drawer box flush with the front of the box, and then, attach the drawer face to the drawer box. Will my results improve if I move the slides and the tracks back 1/8 of an inch? Mark

1. 
   notDusty | Nov 09, 2005 06:19pm | #13

                   YES . It gives the hold in feature a chance to work . Some of the slides have an indent that holds them closed .This tends to pull the face in more .

                            dusty

2. 
   Farkel | Nov 09, 2005 06:37pm | #14

   Thanks. I hoped I was just doing something stupid like that. Now there is a good chance I can fix this thing. Best regards. Mark

3. 
   UnclePaul | Nov 10, 2005 03:26am | #15

   I like KV drawer slides better than Accuride. We use KV8400 side mount slides A LOT, seem to be more forgiving than others. Either the drawer box is out of square or the hole it's going into is out of square (or both). The part of the slide  that mounts to the drawer side has an elongated screw hole for vertical adjustment, the part that mounts in the carcass has horizontal holes. I make sure I use the holes this way so I can adjust the drawer box, up, down, in, or out. An inset (flush) drawer is more challenging than an overlay drawer. If you still can't get them to sit properly a little shimming behind the drawer front against the drawer box may get it done.

   -Paul 

4. 
   mudman | Nov 10, 2005 06:14pm | #16

   Hopefully that is the problem. There are detent stops that hold the drawers closed, and for some reason I've not understood they work better when installed with the setback.  Come on man, read those instructions! Heh heh. Also you can use the elongated holes to gain adjustability. But I always use the set of hole that are in the tabs to help with the tolerances of the width of the opening.

   Mike

   Edited 11/10/2005 10:16 am ET by mudman

4. 
   JohnH | Nov 08, 2005 05:27pm | #8

   Hello Farkel,

   I like flush drawers also. But it is almost impossible to get multiple planes (i.e. drawer fronts and carcass edges) to lie in the same plane. The trick that I use is to recess the drawers a slight amount, about 1/8" from the carcass edges. This gives an interesting shadow effect and any small misalignments are not noticeable.

1. 
   scooter1 | Nov 09, 2005 01:52am | #9

   Its been about a year since I put in Accuride drawers, but the slides are adjustable, at least mine were. There was an elongated hole toward the back where you can move the whole slide forward and back, and another elongated hole in front, where it can be moved up and down. And I actually recall on one model that there was a screw which by turning it could bring the drawers in or out, with a offset cam. So I don't get how this could be a problem.I also make up a jig for installation of mutliple slides, just a dumb piece of plexiglass, with a fence and a couple holes in it for the slide installation. If I'm doing a new set of slides for which I don't have a jig made, I'll fuss with the first one, then make up a jig for the remaining ones. It might take me 30 minutes or so to disassemble the drawers and slides and mark up the correct hole locations and transfer them to my jig, but the other ones go so more quickly.Regards, Scooter"I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

5. 
   kesac | Nov 09, 2005 02:04am | #10

   Make your drawer faces a separate panel , and affix them after you've gotten your drawers as flush as possible.

   Flush drawers are always a pain.