Replies

1. 
   JMartinsky | Oct 04, 2004 02:29am | #1

   Dear Lucky,

   It isn't, so don't even try. I say that only from a safety standpoint. You will need a "compound" power miterbox of some type. I use a Hitachi 8 1/2" sliding compound saw and a 10" Hitachi sliding compound saw, but depending on the width of your material a non-sliding compound miter saw would do the job.

   Good Luck!

   John

2. 
   forestgirl | Oct 04, 2004 08:59am | #2

   As John points out, it sounds like what is more commonly referred to as a "compount miter" cut -- one in which the cut is both mitered and bevelled.  Sliding miter saws are wonderful, but expensive and not necessary for most hobbiests.

   I'm not an expert, but I'll venture to say I'm not positive it's unsafe to make a compound cut with a circular saw (a "Skill saw" I'm assuming you mean).  If I were going to try it, I would (a) clamp the stock securely; (b) use a solid guide-block to run the saw base against for the mitered part of the cut and (c) have the off-cut situated so it could easily fall away and (d) have the right blade and make sure it's sharp. 

   Now, the experts can contradict me, and I'll edit my post if it seems appropriate.  In the meantime, if you'd like to make these cuts far more easily, look into buying a compount miter saw.  Delta makes very functional 10" models for a hobbiest at quite reasonable prices.  If you pocketbook will handle $225+ I'd suggest going for a 12" model.  If you're really flush in the $$-department, by all means go for a slider ($400+)

   forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
   Another proud member of the  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

1. 
   Steinmetz | Oct 05, 2004 05:34am | #6

   FG, don't even try to make compound miters using a sSkill saw'

   Since most decorative moulding is made up of geometric shapes, (Cove/ogee/ astragal/ ovalo ) placing the platen (Flat base) of the circlular saw across the undulating surface throws the whole geometry out of whack .

   Of course ,if you're only making compound cuts on flat and parallel stock ( Like a window box,) it'll work.

   I've cut many feet of crown mould on a table saw, however you must fashion jigs to hold the moulding in the correct orientation .

   I find it adventagious to use two dedicated miter gauges  (One right one left) so once they are adjusted to a perfect 45% they'res no room for bad fits

   Steinmetz   Just got over a nasty virus on my 'puter' Checked my e mail 70 mails.

   Jeeze Louise!

3. 
   BG | Oct 04, 2004 01:42pm | #3

   Lucky,

   About two years ago there was an article in FWW by two guys from North Bennet Street School that demonstrated how to make compound miter cuts on the table saw.  They used a template that reflected the reverse angles of the finished cuts, and with the miter guage, and tilting the saw blade set up the cuts..it is a bit complicated to talk about but the pictures and process steps helped quite a bit.  This might be an approach for you if you can mount your circular saw upside down in a jig.  It also might be easier to make the cuts with a hand saw...

   There is also an article on the homesite here under skills that talks about using a circular saw in the workshop...it does not address miter cuts however.
4. 
   Dave45 | Oct 04, 2004 04:47pm | #4

   Cutting a compound miter with a circular saw isn't terribly difficult, but it isn't very precise, either.  (Hip roof rafters are a good example).

   I don't think would try using a circular saw to make a precise compound miter joint for a cabinet grade project.

5. 
   Andrew | Oct 05, 2004 02:39am | #5

   It can be done, and depending on how large the piece is, you could do it quite precisely too, as long as you use a guide. That's assuming your cutting a reasonably sized peice. I think that it is fairly safe as well, despite what some of the others have said. If it was unsafe why would the manufacturer design a saw with a tilting blade.

   This being said, the process will be a lot slower, and probably less precise than if it were done on a tablesaw or miter saw.

6. 
   e2canoe | Oct 06, 2004 04:36am | #7

   Just did some compound miters with a circ saw myself for exterior trim I did.  Note: my trim was square.  If you are doing profiled trim, don't do compound miters.  Do copes instead (look it up).

   If your saw has an adjustable base plate (haven't seen one that doesn't) and the bevel that you need to cut is 45+ degrees, you can do it.

   Measure the miter that you need on the face of your board and clamp a straight edge the appropriate distance from the line so that when your saw plate runs along it, the blade meets the line (don't forget to set the saw bevel first as this affects the distance).

   Alternatively, you can buy a miter guide meant for circ saws.  Try http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=48434&category=1,240,45313

   Some definitions:

   Miter = angle on face of board.  Set by direction of travel of your saw on the piece.

   Bevel = angle into depth of board.  Set by angle of blade versus saw base plate.

   Compound miter ("Double miter") = A cut is a 2 dimensional surface.  A compound miter is one where both dimensions are other that 90 degrees relative to edges of the wood.

   
   

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   Edited 10/5/2004 9:38 pm ET by e2canoe

   
   

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   Edited 10/5/2004 9:38 pm ET by e2canoe