Attached is a pic of the master bath vanity I am in the midst of building (version #2, didnt like #1). I am trying to decide if I want to continue this theme (spline connections of diff wood) in the kitchen. Reason being, I need to order a cutter for my new saw that will take some time to get to speed this process up. I am concerned that many cabinets with this detail side by side will become too much (you know, gaudy, if that makes any sense).
On top of the cabinet is a sample piece showing the contemplated finish color. This matches the door into the ensuite, and much other trim, but I am torn trying to decide if this is a good choice. The spline connections are bloodwood, and will not be stained, so when the cabinet is stained these connections almost disappear. What you think?
Cabinet/drawer fronts. I have been going back and forth between using birdseye maple or more cherry to match the 45deg fronts. I also thought of veneering inlays of a highly figured wood into cherry fronts. Opinions, thougts???
Thanks all.
Replies
Hello brad805,
I assume doing the splines requires a lot of work so I would not bother with them unless they contrast enough with their surroundings. From that point of view I think the stain colour of the sample would hide the splines too much. On the other hand I share your concern about too many splines having too much contrast.
Personally I really like the splines idea since this is not something you see often so I would try to make the idea work by either selecting a lighter stain or using an accent wood that contrasts a little more with the stained sample. I would also experiment with the number of splines. Perhaps you need not put one at every intersection?
I would not mind getting a diagram or picture of how you do those splines. I might want to try that myself at some point in time.
Regards,
Senomozi
good suggestion on the stain. I have learned I can control the degree the stain soaks into the washcoat by varying the shellac cut, so that might work out well, more darn experimenting. I will have to experiment with some different spline sizes and the quantity for future projects.
The splines were actually not that bad. Started out with butterflies (see attached), but with my current shaper table setup, I couldnt get the repeatability I wanted. To prep the splines, I milled some stock the same width as the depth of as the rails and stiles (dont want end grain) to about .005 to .010" under in thickness. Using 3/4" splines centered at the top and bottom was a bit of a problem, because it only left 3/8" and I ended up breaking a couple (easily repaired). The rail grooves were made in the shaper with a 3/4" cutterhead and the stile grooves were nibbled away on the TS with a wooden mitre fence and stoppers at both ends. Carefully setup and marked to repeat with other cabs. Do all rails at the same time, and fit is a snap. The new cutter head will make this even easier if I go that way. The groover for my new saw gives a perfectly flat cut, one pass exactly 3/4" or whatever I decide. My current dado head has too much rake on the blades, and I end up spending too much time paring.
Thanks.
Brad
Brad,
If you like the basic design/colors, would it be possible to not have all the splines of the different color thus spacing the colored ones further apart so as not to be as busy.
Just my 2¢
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I don't particularly like the splines, so making them absorb into the background stain would be a good thing.
Are those 45º panels recessed 3/4"? It's hard to tell. If they are, then that's unusual.
I'd do to the doors whatever you've done to the 45º panels. If you want some fancy figure on the door panels, then change the 45º ones also. I don't like mixing woods so get some nicely figured cherry and forget the birdy maple.
The 45deg are recessed as you suggested. I milled the edge stock with rebates to accept a 3/4" cherry panel and after test fitting I thought I should add pieces to match the drawer frames. That part of the design evolved, and the method used worked out to be too much work for the little wood savings. If I go to a 45deg again, I will use a solid 6/4 piece of stock. All in all, that part was not thought out carefully enough as i didnt want to spend the time to re-visit my 3D model and update it.
The last version I built with typical panel construction and face frames was simply too boring and did not show any signs of craftsmanship in my opinion. Add to this that my shower door could not quite fully open, and it very quickly became my future basement bath vanity.
Thanks for your suggestions.
Here are drawers with cherry frames and BE panels. They look pretty good to me, but I'm not biased...
You must have been pretty careful to pick out stock to show the curly patterns, they look very nice. I was looking at the rough BE piece I have and it seems it would be easy to end up with fronts looking like typical maple because of the small drawer sizes.
thanks
whoops -- that image didn't look so huge when I attached it...
The BE panels are veneered MDF, so I could match the panels. The frames are all cut from a single piece to match grain and color. It's the way to go for this kind of project.
I've attached a resized photo to make it all clearer.
P
Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005
On to finishing the fronts for this cabinet finally and I am looking for some advice. I couldnt help myself avoid trying my vacuum press and now I am to the finishing stage of the sapele/cherry doors and drawer fronts. The vanity pic is photo 1405. A sample front after initial sanding is pic 1517. To avoid blotching problems I want to use a Zinnser Seal Coat wash coat. Personally, I am reluctant to stain this project as I have dislike staining cherry, but in this case I have been a little hap hazard with my planning and i am afraid unless I blend some of the colors my project will end uplooking too cluttered. Bloodwood splines, sapele and cherry with a finish only may be too busy.To adjust the degree the stain soaks into the washcoat I have triedsome different washcoat ratios.Finish options:1. Picture 1518 is a single coat of Poly Rub. My preference, but a little nervous about this one.2. Picture 1519 is a Bartley Penn Cherry Gel stain over a seal coat of shellac direct out of the can.3. Picture 1520 shows Bartley Penn Cherry Gel stain over two different seal coat options.What do you think?
TIA
Brad
What do you think?
I'd say they all looked more than just 'nice' Take you pick for the color.. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder!
With all the work you are doing, I would build and stain a sample joint. What better way so see how the contrast plays out?
Actually, if it were me I would thin the stain so that you can apply it in light washes, and take a picture after each coat so you can look at them all side by side to determine what is best (or if this is for a client, you can show the client the photos and let him/her choose).
I think the splines are a really nice touch. I agree that they are too bold as is, especially in greater quantity. I really do think that even with a stain that almost hides them, the subtle presence of them in the piece will add more than you think to the finished effect. It is after all a different wood with unique grain.
good luck!
vincent
Yup, a little big and probably too many. Always a learning experience. I have found a 10mm grooving blade that will speed up the process in the future, and I like the one suggestion to use only some pieces of a different wood species. Its important to me that it look custom to me once done. Its my own, I dont think I could find anyone willing to pay what it would cost for this in my neck of the woods.
Thanks for your suggestions.
The look is different, and not in a bad way. I'd go with it.
thanks to both. I'll add a pick in the gallery when finally done. Only fair since I have commented on others work.
Brad
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