I just bought the unbranded version of the Delta DJ-20, the 8″jointer, model 37-350. (I’m told, it is produced by the Delta factory in China and is exactly the same machine, with the same manual, etc).
Have only had it for a week and am VERY pleased with the quality of cut, especially because I got it along with the delta-clone 15″ planer via upgrading from a combination machine that was low quality and cumbersome (I fell for it because it was cheap and dual function! never again.). It’s a little disappointing to see the criticism of Delta jointers on this forum, and hope I’ve bought a good quality machine that will last a lifetime. Any comments are welcome…
Can you advise on the fence? Specifically, how do I get the fence to slide easily over the tabletop without scratching the outfeed table?
– The fence has a little lip (4-6″ or so) running along the bottom to the left of the cutterhead that it allows the fence to rest on the table (and provides correct “0” height for the measuring tape at the left end of the fence).
– However, it also means that I can’t move the fence forward or backward without dragging on the table. Is this normal, or should the fence have clearance above the table? If it’s supposed to clear the table, how the heck do I set the 90-degree stop to provide the clearance? Unless I’m blind or just too inexperienced, I can’t see any method to do that.
Can you advise?
Thanks from Australia…
Kerim
PS – This is my first post on knots and I’m a relative novice. I’ve gained a lot by reading your solutions, so thanks. Have enjoyed a subscription to FWW for several years and have slowly built up a good collection of power tools and a budding selection of hand tools. Just love the whole thing… Am about to start making dining table & chairs, etc. Am nervous/cautious, but excited…
Replies
Kerm, The lip you refer to does contact the table on my Delta 8" jointer but it doesn't scratch the table. In 3 years of use it has left a slightly darker coloration but no scratches and it slides smoothly. Sounds like you have a few casting burrs. Maybe a light filing in that area and some paste wax on the table might clear up the problem. I re-wax my table whenever I sense any dragging and the difference is amazing. Good luck.
Ian,
Thanks for your advice. I'll put it into action when I head out in to my heavenly workshop. Yes, I thought the lip must rest on or very very close to the table, otherwise the measuring scale is off.
All the best,
Kerim
Thanks EVERYONE for your constructive advice. (I'm only just learning how to use this forum and thought "reply" actually replied by email to each individual....)
I have printed out all your comments and will go play with the jointer.
Cheers....
Kerm
I almost bought a DJ-20 via mail order. I was saved from this mistake when I saw a couple of them in person. I was very disappointed with the quality of the castings. These things had burrs that would not quit.
But now, progressing over to the constructive side, I agree that a little effort into cleaning up the ragged edges could go a long way toward preserving the table. You might closely examine the actual point of contact between the fence and table. Make sure there is a slight radius on the bottom edge of the fence so that you will always have a smooth surface even if the fence is tilted from 90 deg.
I don't recall all the specifics of the Delta, but on my Grizzly 0500 I can put a little bit of "lift" on the fence when I loosen the anglulation lock. Thereby holding the fence in a very slightly elevated position to reduce the weight on the table, thus reduce drag.
Edited 1/30/2004 9:32:42 AM ET by mlbfreestyle
Edited 1/30/2004 9:33:53 AM ET by mlbfreestyle
Kerm:
I wasn't aware that there is such a thing as an unbranded version of the DJ-20...
Anyway, I think others have got it right: Check that you don't have any spurs scratching the surface of the bed. A file and some elbow grease outa do ya. I am not too crazy on the design of the DJ-20's fence, I have a problem with mine not being able to tilt inwards to 45 degrees...
Machining issues aside, I much prefer the parallelogram design than the conventional dovetailed keyways. And bed adjustment is so much easier...it's a sweet machine
The lever/handle that loosens the fence for moving, has a nut that adjusts the amount of movement of the lever/handle that is necessary for movement of the fence. (there has got to be a better way to say that)
Tighten the nut in small increments until it reaches the right amount of tension that allows fence movement without dragging on the jointer bed/table.
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