Dear All,
I was considering a plunge cut with a dado set up. Specifically, I want to make a series of slots in a piece of 3/4. The piece will be used to cover some baseboard heat, so the slots are for air holes. Normally, I would use a hand held router to make the cuts (1/2″) with a straight bit. It is doable, but throws chips all over my shop and requires quite a bit of set up and precision to get the slots parallel. My idea was to use the dado blade to make the slots and drill the ends to create the round. It would seem like a sound idea, and using the dado on the TS would be much cleaner and quicker. IF it doesn’t throw the piece, or do something else just as scary! I am a veteran of plunge cutting, but I’ve never tried it with a dado set up. Does anyone have any experience with this type of cut?
Thanks,
John
Replies
This should be fun.
I do them often but when I teach I can't suggest the practice to anyone, it's not without risk. A set with 4 wing chippers will be safer than a set with 2 wing chippers but again,
Do not try this. Use the router.
Lee
Dear Lee,
Just to clarify, I do this professionally, which means nothing other than I am not unfamiliar with the machines. It is a technique that would be new to me. I have a PM66 with a Freud "dial a dado" which uses 4 wing chippers. You said this would be fun, why? I keep picturing it as grinding away smoothly on the plunge, but it would seem that there is some potential for the dado to grab at one point. Once I am through the material it would seem pretty safe, but my head keeps raising red flags at the plunge.John
If you're seeing red flags there is a reason, don't do it. As a professional you know that danger often hides in uncertainty when sharp fast moving cutters are involved.Use the router.LeeP.S. The "fun" comment was based on the expected reaction to you doing pocket cuts with a dado head.MontanaFest
Dear Lee,
I think that I've scrapped the idea in favor of two cuts with the saw blade. Just for kicks, let me ask you something: You said that you have done this type of cut. What were your experiences?John
You're putting me in an uncomfortable position. If you worked for me or if I were in a teaching/mentoring relationship with you and if we were together in person I'd demonstrate the cut and discuss the dangers. Through a forum on the internet it's not possible to convey everything I think you should know so I have to back away. Stay comfortable around your tools, you know this is the best safety tip anyone can do. One bad move can have dire consequences and I don't want anyone doing a tragic procedure because I said it was a good idea.LeeMontanaFest
Dear Lee,
I understand, no problem. Your advice is wise and your points are taken. If I'm ever in Montana, perhaps you could show me! Thanks again!John
The biggest chance for a kickback during a plunge cut is if the stock suddenly drops too fast, and a tooth gets too big a bite, and you can't hold against that force as it gains progressivly more traction with each tooth.One of the worse mistakes that one can make is to back up either during or after the plunge. And beleive it or not, the hazard is worse on an underpowered saw than on the more powerful models. That should not be a problem with your 66. Put a mark on the fence or the back of the table so you know where the back of the blade is, and as the top of the blade comes through, only move forward.
I hear what you are saying and I agree. I have decided to scrap the idea and go with two cuts from the regular TS blade. Thanks!John
Have you considered gluing-up strips to create a panel with voids for air passages instead of milling slots to allow air flow?
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Dear Jazz,
That would work, but it is too labor intensive for what I bid on this. Thanks anyway.John
John,
If you have your heart set on this approach the only advice I would give would be to raise the blade into the stock instead of plunging the stock into the blade. Careful where you hold the board and firmly against the fence! Make the pass, turn off the saw, lower the blade, repeat.......a plunge router really would be best choice.....
-Paul
Why not do 2 stopped plunge cuts with the blade .It won't take much longer and is a lt safer.The tooth load on a dado is pretty heavy doing that kind of cut that in one pass and if it takes 2 passes then a blade is as fast.You will have to clean up the ends either way.
That makes sense, that's probably why I didn't think of it! OK, I'm sold.John
I'm sure you realize that the dado will leave a rounded stop. As the blade is raised higher, the stop will be less pronounced. Dado sets aren't made for plunging so you can expect resistance and maybe some burning. You will probably be due for a sharpening in a short time. As others have said, recommending this operation isn't something many would feel comfortable with. It can be done, however.
The important issue is not having the blades kick the piece out of your control. You definitely want a stop clamped firmly to the table or fence and you don't want your hands to be able to contact the blades. Positioning the stock and then raising the blade, rather than dropping the stock on a spinning blade would be the safest, if you can call it safe. As you raise the blade, chances are things will get hot. I think I'd disconnect the dust collector and watch the debris in the saw for smoke.
Once you start removing material, the piece will get weak. I think I'd start on the outside and work in, that way you'll have solid stock against the fence, the same way you would cut a feather board. It will be difficult to keep your pretty face out of the kickback zone while you are raising and lowering the blades. You'll also have to try to pay attention to both, holding the work and working the saw. It's up to you if you want to be in that position. The larger the work piece, the more difficult it is. You are an experienced person, so you know, that cutting corners to save time, is how we get hurt.
Dear Hammer,
You have brought up some good points. My idea was to be more efficient, but not lethally so. I placed this posting because I had an idea that this may not be recommended and I would prefer to learn by others mistakes! What I was looking for was a better than 50% consensus that this was no problem, that is not what I have gotten. All I have so far are confirmations of my suspicions, that is fine, I will pursue an alternative. I appreciate your as well as all others insights. Thanks Again!John
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Sorry to hear about your incident. If anyone is curious, here is a fantastic demo of the safest way to perform a plunge cut on the tablesaw. I use the same concepts on the router table as well.
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