I am new to woodworking and have been shopping about for a new table saw( about $400 budget) and have been told that most of todays tablesaws wont take dadoe blade set ups…does that make sense???
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Replies
Depends where you are. In North America dado sets are permitted, and most table-saws with sufficient power make provision for them. If the saw's arbour has about an inch of thread showing, then it can take a dado set. Small job-site or table-top saws quite often don't because they're underpowered. Your $400 limit might be a problem -- you might have to pay a little more to get a contractor saw that's big enough for the job.
Jim
thamks for that, I am in Scotland. but going up in budget isnt an option just now, but even then the guy said I would be struggling. Guess I need to get the hang of that router I bought last month! Tricky little bugger...thanks again
Been a long time since I lived in Scotland, but I believe in Europe generally dado sets aren't an option for safety reasons -- something to do with how long it takes the blades to stop. Maybe Richard Jones can chip in on this. If you have a router then that should do the job with a straighedge to guide it. Good luck,
Jim
The guy in the shop over here says the blade has to have some kind of kick back for safety as the wood goes through at the back and this doesn't work well with the dado's.
matt,
The guy in the shop over here says the blade has to have some kind of kick back for safety as the wood goes through at the back and this doesn't work well with the dado's.
I think what the folks back at the shop were talking about is a riving knife or splitter installed behind the blade. These devices keep the wood from pinching against the back of the blade which can cause the board to kick back at you.
Have a look at this: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=31896
You don't want a splitter/riving knife installed when cutting dados and shouldn't have this problem with a dado set as you aren't cutting all the way through the board. Do you know if dado sets are legal in Scotland?
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 7/22/2009 9:20 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Mattcan, I posted a not to Richard Jones, who's on your side of the pond. He'll probably be along sometime sorta soon to help out. Click here for his web site (it's nice!) if you've not seen it before....forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"Guess I need to get the hang of that router I bought last month! "Cutting dadoes with a router is easy . . . with a good jig, and multiple passes, if required for the depth of cut.
You might consider checking out your local classified adds or Craig's list for a good used saw. There is a good variety available in most areas.
I recently bought a 4-5 year old Grizzly 1023 that came with a Freud carbide blade, a Freud dado set, three extra table inserts, a mobile stand and an outboard roller stand for $550. It works beautifully!
Good luck!
furndr
He's in Scotland, not sure Craig's List reaches that far?? Wow, you got a very good package in the 1023!
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 7/22/2009 3:13 pm by forestgirl
thanks pal, good idea I am just a little nervous going used as I am new to this and not really sure I know what I am looking at...
Table saws in the UK will not accept a dado blade. The arbors are too short. Dado blades are not illegal and, in theory, you could fit one to a table saw if only the arbor were long enough. They are not and that's to prevent you fitting one because if you could fit one you'd butt up against some quite stringent HSE regulations concernigng guarding and PUWER 98 regulations relating to things like stop speed of the cutting edges, etc.
A $400 US (£240 GB) budget really doesn't get you much of table saw anywhere I'm afraid, let alone in the UK. Within your budget is something like this from Axminster. It's pretty much at the bottom end of table saws available and its capabilities will therefore be quite limited. You should be able to pick up something similar at B&Q, Homebase or perhaps the Saw Centre in Edinburgh or Glasgow. Slainte.
richardjonesfurniture.com
thank you for getting back to me and providing a clear answer to my question. I just want to say that I have in just 2 days of getting involved in this forum had a great response from people trying to help out...I hope you all realize how much this kind of support means to a new woodworker who really wants to have a go at this delightful craft....thanks again..
Matt, an official welcome is due, glad we (especially Richard) could help out, and best of luck equipping a shop. As it turns out, Craig's List does exist in your general neck of the woods, here's the Edinburgh link. In the States, Craig's List is a fantastic source for used tools.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Matt, you might also try Machine Mart and ToolStation. I don't know exactly where you are, so can't tell which supplier is local. All the ones I've suggested, except perhaps the Saw Centre do mail order or deliver countrywide. Slainte.richardjonesfurniture.com
I have decided to get the Clarke cts12 from Machine Mart in Portobello...it fits my budget at £218(that's about $400 to us yanks) and has a cool laser beam for the cut. One of the dowsides with my budget is these type of saws dont have full lenght fences and are a little loose at the end of them, but I think I have come up with a way to put a clamp at the end that should stabilize it better. Or I think I can make a full lenght "wooden fence" to replace the aluminium one. That is if I can get the hang of this new router to make the right cut. Thanks again for your help...speak soon...Matt
It sounds as if somewhere down the line you have come under the influence of American style tablesaw usage-- you have mentioned US dollars a couple of times as if it's your native currency. The rip fence on European saws are meant to be set short for ripping jobs. Have a look at this article before you try and modify the existing equipment. And I strongly advise you to leave the riving knife and crown guard in place. In the UK we use them even though most Americans don't use the safety equipment on their machines.
I am concerned because you do come across as very inexperienced and rather out of your depth. My concern is primarily for your safety because you are already suggesting how you might modify the machine you have ordered without even knowing why it is configured the way it is.
Is there any chance you could find somebody to show you how to do some of the basic power woodworking tasks? Slainte.richardjonesfurniture.com
your observations are correct, I am American living in Scotland for the last ten years. I am also a project manager with work that requires alot of H&S interaction. I am not suggesting I alter safety issues with equipment, and wont do that, but my experience is that sometimes costs v safety v equipment v standards get out of balance. Why not have a fence a fence that extends the whole length of the table saw and creates betters cuts than any other real reason than cost? which, I must add, is importontant to me at the moment. Thanks for your concern, and I do take it on board that my inexperience is an issue...this whole woodworking forum stuff just keeps getting better...thanks sqianDubh
"Why not have a fence a fence that extends the whole length of the table saw and creates betters cuts than any other real reason than cost?"
Matt, did you read the article I pointed you to in my last post? In case you didn't here is the link again. That article, in which I had a hand in writing, outlines in broad terms the reasoning behind using a short set rip fence for ripping tasks. If you lived near me I could show you in less than ten minutes the advantages of a short set fence over a US style full length fence. If you knew the reasoning and the safety advantages, as well as know how to use that method for ripping wood, I suspect you would be much less likely in future to think a long fence can give you better cuts, and you will know that a long fence is significantly less safe for the job. Slainte.richardjonesfurniture.com
Richard & matt,
I couldn't agree more with the short fence.
I made a saddle arrangement for my Beisemeyer that in effect makes it into a Euro short fence. Works really well when one encounters a board that likes to splay out when being cut, especially on the fence side.
Also, I've not noticed not difference in the accuracy of a cut. Could be my technique, or lack thereof.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
And I would saw if it 'sprays' out not to use unless cut up into other sicks
Not really sure what you said but I thing I have a early Ridgid saw with the arbor problem. Never bothered me. The shaft is too short!
And if anybody LOCAL 'as near Chicago' needs My Daddo set I will give it away for a drink or two. Not Coffee~ And if you get me drunk you have to drive me home!
Or was that SAY?
Edited 7/27/2009 11:31 am by WillGeorge
Will,
Yup and it typically seems to happen when cutting small molding pieces which aren't a problem but wider boards/sticks can be a problem with the cut. I'm talking about a small amount, say 1/4" or less.
I really like my Freud Dial-A-Width Dado set. I don't use a lot of plywood but am all set when I do.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Richard:
Thanks for helping me understand the Euro take on ripping. I'd seen occasionally the sliding fence on some Delta saws but never understood the rationale. Like the earlier response, I'll experiment with my (dadoing - hope you didn't see that) fence saddle - I can measure over to the blade, then slide it back (like the Delta fence) and lock in position.
Don,
On the saddle I made I placed a stop block on the outboard side that engages the edge of the TS. Keeps the saddle in position and you simply lift it on/off as needed. I have a Biesemeyer fence.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Matt, I'm going to jump on the "short fence" (half-fence) band-wagon. I bought a used Unisaw last year, with the Unifence. The reason I love that fence is because it can be brought toward the infeed side of the fence to the point where the fence ends just before the middle of the blade. This is a great safety feature for ripping lumber! It does not affect the accuracy of the cut because the fence is still there to register the stock against where it counts, but it does eliminate the problem of stock getting pinched between the fence and the rising teeth at the back of the blade--->kickback.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Hi, Richard. Another thread we could use your input on -- United Kingdom resident asking about his band saw:http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=47555.1
Thanks!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I can't help him. I have no idea if the Charnwood machine is a Delta clone. Slainte.richardjonesfurniture.com
Sir.. I understand.. I bought a Freud Dial-A-Width Dado..that I cannot use! Hell, the wrench does not even fit my saw's nut...
AND my saws shaft a bit short to fit the Dado set.. .. I have a Big Box saw.. IT works for me in everything I do... AND I do ALOT of things with it.. VERY FAR from a JUNK saw.. A Ridgid... Yes Home Depot TS...
Edited 7/23/2009 9:30 pm by WillGeorge
I own a Bosch table saw and am quite happy with it. It will take a dado stack but if you are hunting for a less expensive saw you can dado with a router and guide.
Besides a router is a really handy tool to own because you can form decorative edges, mill groves, dado and even surface timbers with it!
just something to consider!
Chaim
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