I have a couple of questions about dado sets some of you more experienced woodworkers could answer for me! I have a generic Craftsman 10″ table saw that I want to add a dado set to. I found in the operators manual that I have to use a 6″ NON carbide tipped, Non adjustable 1/2″ wide max dado! What I need to know is what a “non-adjustable dado is, never heard of one! What is the reason I can’t use carbide tipped dado sets. Also, why only up to 1/2” width, looks like there is plenty of clearence for a wider set! While I’m at it can you tell me the benefits of a “wobble” dado over a stacked dado! Any other comments about what to look for would be appreciated too!
Best regards
Replies
I hardly ever use them.. I use a router table.. However.. a wobble dado sucks! bottom of the cut is NOT flat! I do have one though.. I used it once!
Stacked is MUCH better and I think safer...... My opinion only...
6" NON carbide tipped, Non adjustable 1/2" wide max dado..
Got me..... If it fits on the arbor and you can tighten the nut and not hit the table top... ya should be OK...
Just me thinking again...
Agree with Router table approach, dado's can be dangerous. One and only accident I had involved a dado blade. Things can happen with a router as well, but I have overall found them to be less prone to violent kickback.
I am not sure what they mean by non-adjustable. It may be referring to a "wobble" dado which I would definitely NOT buy. The advantages of a "wobble" dado over a stacked dado set are; 1) poor quality cuts, 2) bottoms that are not flat, 3) sides that are not square, 4) weak joints and, 5) looks really bad.
The 1/2" maximum width may be a limitation of your arbor length to ensure maximum arbor nut engagement. You can check this by measuring how much of the arbor thread shows with a blade installed. This should probably be the maximum width dado used. If 1/2" were the maximum width dado my saw would take, I would either buy another saw or use a router to cut them as most of my dados are just under3/4" wide.
I am baffled on the no carbide tips allowed as having owned a number of tablesaws over the years, I don't believe any of them cared (or even knew) whether a blade was carbide tipped or not. The first one of them was a Craftsman and I know it wasn't any smarter than the others. Also, the first dado set I had was Craftsman and not carbide tipped, got rid of that set real fast as it didn't perform very well. There are a lot of good stacked dado sets available, I had a 8" Freud and it performed extremely well.
Please forgive my attempt at humor in this reply, I didn't get much sleep last night.
6" max? If this is a 10" saw you should be able to use an 8" only 2 reasons I can think of for the size limitation would be that this is a 7" table saw and the 8" blade would not go below the table top, or that it is a low power induction motor where the speed of such a wide blade might not be able to be handled.
I huess what we need here is more info on the saw itself. Size of blade, model number...
the full width of a 8" dado blade will not fit on my sears saw because the blade rotates in a fiber or composite housing which is not wide enough for the full with of the dado blade--you can get up to about 1/2'" width
Its always possible that those recommendations were imposed by the legal department ...
I'd get out a ruler and check the clearances to figure if there is a reason for those recommendations.
When I was young I owned a number of Caftsmen tools, including a 'wobble' dado, which, like all the other Craftmen purchases, was a mistake. I believe that was a non-carbide 6" model, so it could be they just want you to buy more fo their stuff. I suspect a wobble dado is harder on a saw than a normal one.
Table saws and kickback are a big concern. Make sure your operation is safe.
I have a Systematic 8" carbide stack (I would not use a wobbler) that I like and use a lot on my 10" cabinet saw. I make zero clearance inserts for different stack widths and get very clean edges. But IMHO I agree routers are safer in many or even most situations. Opinions vary but for me the dado stack setup time is shorter and the cuts more repeatable.
In addition to straightforward and probably safer use, router dados are flat bottomed. Dado stacks usually leave some roughness (at least mine does), that can reduce the quality of the joint. Easy enough to clean up with a shoulder plane, but there goes the time advantage.
Edited 7/28/2005 5:38 pm ET by ram
Standard wobble blades are cheaper upfront but are pretty much a waste of money regardless of who's name's on it. The physics of the design mean they make a rounded bottom....there may be a few exceptions that use a different design. A stacked dado costs a bit more upfront but should do a much better job.....get carbide tipped.
Cripe Distributing is selling 6" carbide tipped "unmarked" Irwin stacked dado sets on Ebay for $30 delivered ("Buy it now" for $22 plus $8 s/h). I have no idea how good it is, but if you don't want to spend alot, I'm positive it's better than a wobbler or a steel set.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Un-marked-Irwin-6-Carbide-Stack-Dado-set-carbide_W0QQitemZ5990847176QQcategoryZ79708QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
p.s. I have no associated with this deal....
Most of the advice you've received is quite good. Wobbles are out and stacks are far better. I can't answer the question of why the limits are placed on your saw but suspect it has to do with horsepower and the physical limitations around the saw blade. I know this won't help now, but you might keep it in mind as you progress through your skills and upgrade your equipment.
The very best dado sets are manufactured by Forrest in New Jersey. They have had excellent reviews and I've used them successfully for years. Freud's are also very good and somewhat less expensive. Carbide is the only way to go both for blades as well as dado sets. Internal raker blades come with two cutting edges, four and some with even more. Buy a set with at least four (which are set at 90 degrees from one another and reduce vibration). Most of us started out with Craftsman equipment and have upgraded over the years. THe result tends to be mirror smooth saw cuts, dead on accuracy, and no bogging down in ripping thick boards.
The fun of this hobby are the projects that that really turn out fine with accumulated skill and better equipment.
Good luck
I have three methods of cutting dadoes and they each have advantages.
1- I have a dedicated DeWalt 770 10 inch radial arm saw equiped with a Dimar carbide toothed, stacked dado blade. Very safe, accurate and easy to set up for repeatability.
2-Handheld Bosch router and shop built jigs for particulr bits used to dado. I use this method if only making a few dadoes. Very safe, accurate cuts...some tearout with red oak.
3-My favourite is my General 350 table saw with the monster sliding table (weighs in at 220 lbs) and zero clearance throat. I use a Dimar stacked dado set, same as on the DeWalt, and the super accurate fence setup on the General sliding table. All cuts are right on, simple to set up, repeatable and safe.
As for your Craftsman saw, good luck. I don't mind the Craftsman shop vac but that's it as far as I am concerned.
I don't know of one experienced woodworker who uses a wobble dado set. The mystery for me is why do they make them?
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