I frequently deal with rough lumber straight from the chainsaw. Sometimes it is green as well. I usually cut it down to 8″ widths as that is the size of my jointer, though I sometimes leave boards wider if I see potential. Most stock is 1-1/2″ – 2-1/4″ thick but can be as thick as 4″.
In the past, I have been using a 7-1/4″ circular saw. Aside from the occaisonal binding (no problem), it works well. However, it is incapable of cutting anything over 2-3/8″ thick. Suggestions?
Chris @ flairwoodworks
– Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. – Albert Schweitzer
Replies
A band saw is probably the safest way.
Scott
sgwilliams,
Not so grasshopper <grin> try a 16 inch Mikita. You will throw stones at your band saw once you've used one!
Chris
I use the bandsaw to hack up the rough timbers into rough sizes. Flattening afterwards is an easier chore. For crosscuts that go beyond your bandsaw's wheel size, I still use the circ. saw. If it's too thick, finish it off with a sharp halfback.
Jeff
JeffHeath,
try a 16 inch Mikita you'll throw stones at your band saw once you do..
Aside from not having to lift that heavy timber up on a small band saw table it's much faster and easier.. plus it cuts nice and straight. Use the guide and you can slice off thin enough to veneer.
It will cut about 6 1/4 inchs in a single pass..
Had one. Didn't like it. Sold it.
Just my mileage, yours may vary.
JeffHeath
What didn't you like about it? Mine has been such a workhorse and those I see with them doing timberframing, log home building etc.. sure get a lot of use out of them.
I did read where someone who wasn't aware of how to use them properly had troubles and I sure can see that possibility. That cheap junky blade guard for example and the fact that you can't do anything except straight cuts with it are real limits.
But rip thru a 24 foot long white oat timber that a band saw won't even hold without crushing.
I will grant you that the Mafell is a better saw but it's 6 times the price and requires 220 Volts.. (plus it weighs about twice as much)
You might want to consider the Festool 75EQ circular saw with the guide-rail. It won't cut as deep as you want but with the guide-rail it should not be too difficult to line up a back-side cut pretty exactly. A couple passes on the jointer would even it up.
Frosty
"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
A Stanley toolbox saw with the hardened Japanese style teeth will work fine, or you might go with the longer saw for stock that thick.
With wood that size, you want to cut it in place, take the tool to the wood, instead of hoisting it up on the bandsaw.
Small electric chainsaws also work well in this application - getting thick planks broken down to just over the lengths needed for project parts.
Edited 3/10/2008 10:13 am ET by BossCrunk
In addition to hand operated saws, buck saws, crosscut saws and chain saws, there are a number of large circular saws and beam cutters for beams. One of my foundation guys uses an electric chain saw, cheap enough to throw away when they get old.
http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/kind/beamsaws.html
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
flairwoodworks,
Hammer1 has it right .. there are a lot of timberframing tools out there that will do the job safer, faster, and easier than a bandsaw will.
The ideal tool for you would be the Mikita 16 inch circular saw.. It works on 110 volt just like a regular circular saw and is a pretty amazing saw. Capable of cutting thru more than 6 inches of wood in a single pass..
The cool thing is it's pretty affordable. New they are about $600 but used they go for about 1/2 that price.. watch E Bay and timberframing sites.
You haven't seen cool untill you rip through a 6 inch timber slicing off whatever you need. The sawdust comes pouring out the discharge chute and makes a neat piles as you rip thru the wood..
Buy the carbide toothed blade, the regular steel blade will wear out and get dull quickly.. another limitation is the blade guard.. can you say cheezy? I've given up trying to push it up with the forward motion of the saw the way most saws work and instead just lift it out of the way manually.
When you first get the saw you will swear something is wrong with it.. the blade turns so slow compared to a regular saw. You'd think that as soon as you touch the wood it will stall out..
AH! not so grasshopper <grin> Nice smooth cut!
Oh, be aware that a blade that big can easily be jammed so don't even think of turning the saw once you start the cut. Back it up and start it straight!
It's not very expensive to get the blade resharpened so don't try to force a dull blade.. The thing has some serious kick to it but once you start cutting with it it's easy to guide and push thru wood..
Frenchy,
I like your thinking! While a bandsaw would surely do a fine job, getting a +100lb slab up would be a challenge, especially in a smaller shop. How many teeth do you recommend? Can you buy a blade with a wider kerf for working with green wood?
Thanks for the safety notes too. I shall do some research now.Chris @ flairwoodworks
- Success is not the key to happines. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
flairworks
The blade I counted had 50 teeth. The carbide is a bit wider but both work just fine on either green or dried wood. By the way I can Slice off less than 1/4 inch thick slices as long as a timber is so if you want to make thin veneer have it it..
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