I like the feel, quality, and paintability of poplar. However, whenever I cut it, I get fuzzy remnants hagging off it. It’s not so bad that I would call it splintering but it’s not a nice clean cut. I don’t have issues with any other materials that cut (pine, oak, mdf, even pvc trim.)
I get the same results on my table saw and miter saw.
Any ideas what the cause is? Does poplar require an extremely sharp blade. I’m a diy’er so my equipment doesn’t get used every day although I do use it often.
If it’s the blade, any suggestions for a quality blade?
Replies
I don't work a lot of poplar, but I know what you mean. A sharp blade seems to be what the doc ordered, though, for a clean cut.
I use a Forrest Woodworker II blade, which is widely available for about $100.
You should do a search through past threads, and you will find some folks who have found blades they feel are of similar quality, but cost less money.
Good luck.
Are you sure it is poplar you are cutting ? Yellow poplar that is and not aspen ?
I work with yellow poplar quite often and I don't have any "hair" problems.
Aspen in New England is also called poplar, it's much whiter, it doesn't have any green or purple color and is not as stable. The knives of a molder need to be grinded at 45 deg. to work with aspen and avoid "hair".
C.
Your point is well taken, since I think a lot of lumber yards are getting "loosey goosey" with their labeling. I still remember sighing when I first saw "whitewood' being sold in a home center.
I buy this stuff from a reliable yard, and it is labeled "yellow poplar" -- and the heart wood has a greenish cast to it. The sapwood has a pleasant creamy tone. I assume that's what poplar is supposed to look like, right?
I don't have the "hairy' problem Thang describes, but if the blade is getting dull, it will sometimes have a slightly hairy look to it, which is never enough to consitute a problem. With a sharp blade, the cut is fine.
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I buy this stuff from a reliable yard, and it is labeled "yellow poplar" -- and the heart wood has a greenish cast to it. The sapwood has a pleasant creamy tone. I assume that's what poplar is supposed to look like, right?
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That is exacly it, yellow poplar, you described perfectly, I have seen cottonwood sold as "white poplar" ...
C.
I've bought poplar at lumber yards with no hair (looked a lot like maple); and poplar from Home Despot (always had hair). I am pretty sure they were different species.
The hairy poplar tended to fuzz up whether the blade was sharp or not, while the other sort seemed a little harder and caused no problems.
The best way to handle the fuzz, in my experience is to seal it pror to final sanding. This seems to stiffen the grain.
Regards,
Dan
I've stopped using poplar in favor of maple for paint-grade projects. I get more raised grain from the former when paint is applied, even if it is sanded smooth before priming.
Try sanding smooth AFTER priming.
Dan
I do, Dan. And in between finish coats if needed.
Maple is less work in the finish stage and gives better results, IMHO.
When you say "maple" I assume you refer to hard maple.
There are a number of species you can use if you end up painting, yellow birch, soft maple, basswood, come to mind, all less expensive than hard maple and not so hard on your tools !
C.
Yes. Hard maple. Try it. You'll like it.
Lefton,
I don't think you read my post to entirely, ...Try again !
C.
Around here (MN), hard maple is twice as heavy and twice as expensive as soft maple.
And soft maple is about the same price as yellow poplar, which is why I generally use it instead of poplar.
I use a lot of the same stuff. I get it at HD when I don't want to make a trip to the yard and then have to mill it. Usually quick paint grade built-ins, though some are very nice. The solution is simple and obvious, I am suprised to be the first to mention it. Score the cut onn the tear-out side. A couple of passes with any kind of knife will prevent the fuz. By the way I use Forrest blades and it dosen't matter on that stuff.
Mike
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