OK, so I’m getting to the design portion of creating a new project, and it seems as if I’m going to have to cut a lot of mortises.
Just out of curiosity, this week my poll is about how you cut your mortises. I figure I might be able to use the results to influence my wife into agreeing to some new tools!
http://tomsworkbench.com/2008/03/09/quick-poll-10/
Thanks for voting…
Replies
You know, I've seen about a dozen models of shop built mortising jigs ... and each of them gets more creative.
Judging from the pictures you posted, it looks like that works pretty well for you!
Tom's Workbench
http://tomsworkbench.com
I'm cheap, lazy and cobble up jigs on the spur of the moment. They aren't complicated or pretty and I don't throw money at the solution. As long as the work comes out correct, that's all that counts.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Rats, that's just what my wife is going to say...Tom Iovino
Tom's Workbench
http://tomsworkbench.com
You have to have an agreement. You don't ask about the beauty shop, make up, nail polish, horses, saddles, or whatever the Mrs. likes and she doesn't ask about woodworking, motorcycles or whatever you like. Besides, you could always use a new plunge router, bits, chisels, etc.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Kinda like clamps, space, tools................. Yes, and an agreement is of utmost importance! Then ya don't have to hide it and 6 months later say, "Oh that, I've had that for years. Guess you didn't notice it."
:>)
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hi Hammer,
Re your pictures of your jig, am I right that you fix the jig to the movable vice face with the c-clamps and clamp the work with the vice with the jig along for the ride?
Also, do the screws indicate that you can slide the top plate along slots to center the mortise where you want it, or.... did you just screw the top plate to the jig where you wanted the mortise to be?
Inquiring minds want to know
Mike D
Hi Mike,
The fence is slotted underneath. I used some flat head garage door bolts, which is what you see in the picture. You can move it to suit the thickness of the stock or position of the mortice, make two or more cuts if needed. In this case, it is attached to the front, moving part of the vice with screws. It could also be clamped to the work piece. The fence can also be skewed if you were doing shutters or something similar. The little C-clamp you see is just a stop, it's holding a small piece of 1/4" MDF that the end of the work goes against, for repeat positioning. With the jig in the front vice, you could position a stop anywhere along the bench. The front vice is a quick way to hold your work solidly.At the time I took the picture, I was working on glass muntin cabinet doors. The mortice was offset from the center due to the construction of the door frame. The same template guide for the router will take bits up to 1/2". On this job, I used 1/4". Template guides are very versatile. When appropriate, they are much easier than trying to use stops or guides for the router base plate. If you look in the background of the picture, you can see a practice scrap where I used a similar/larger jig for sliding dovetails. The groove for the template guide was wider than the guide due to the size of the stock. I ran up one side then back down the other.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hi Hammer,
What a great looking door!
Do you leave the pins slightly proud as a design element, or they there simply for strength?
I hadn't thought of using template guides and spaces to make loose tenon mortises. That's a great idea - way simpler than lining up an edge guide to the exact same spot for those frame pieces that don't get made the first run.
Mike D
I hadn't trimmed them flush yet. I wanted an easy way to keep the mullion in the door frame besides glue, so I used small pegs "toenailed" at a slight angle. They only show on the backside.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
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