Replies

1. 
   hammerelbow1 | Dec 05, 2008 05:23am | #1

   The reason you cope a corner on crown is that you don't end up with a crack in the corner when the wood moves or dries out. No matter how much glue you use it won't stay together. To cut crown on a miter saw put it on your miter saw upside down and backwards.The fence on the saw would be the wall and the table on the saw would be the ceiling. You can work from either the left or the right which ever you are more comfortable with. Take a scrap piece and practice a few times and take your time. You would be surprised how easy it is. If you have a lot of corners to fit try using a jig saw to cut your copes out. Stay close to the profile but not right on it and then clean it up with a file. Keep the base of the jig saw flat on the face of the cut. And use a course cut blade.

   Wayne

2. 
   lwilliams | Dec 05, 2008 08:01am | #2

   Wanda,

   Crown isn't that difficult to install, but it's a lot easier with two people working. Wayne gave you the basics, turn the crown upside down on the saw and cope the joints.

   The problem with systems like you describe is that corners are rarely really square, especially in architectural work. Just the sheet rock corner bead on outside corners will assure you won't have 90º corners even if the framing was dead on. Inside corners are usually finished with heavier mud as well. There's a reason the coping method evolved--it works and is dependable. Try it, it's pretty easy.

   Some people like sprung backing behind the crown but I always preferred to get nailers installed before the sheet rock. Ceiling nailers on centers in the voids parallel to the joists and behind the rock allow you to tweek the joints by ever so slightly changing the spring angle. You'll never see the difference but the joints will be better and easier to fit.

1. 
   Wanda200 | Dec 05, 2008 05:41pm | #3

   Hi guys,

   Thanks for the tips. I have cut cove moulding before and I have installed baseboards. I've always coped my inside corners. I was just asking because the tradesmen I spoke with said they  miter the corners at a 45 degree and then glue them. That's what the carpenters here do anyway. (Canada eastcoast) Doesn't make it right though.

   I've always read that coping hides the gaps as the wood contracts and expands due to changes in relative humidity. It definitely pays to perfect your coping skills. So that kit would be a waste of money. Claiming perfect miters without coping.

   I think those carpenters should read Craig Savage's book on Trim carpentry.  :)  excellent reference.

   Wanda

1. 
   Sean2112 | Dec 06, 2008 07:50am | #4

   I install 20,000+ LF of crown per year and never cope. I cope base, 1/4 round, even chair rail, but the crown and cornice moldings we use are a lot more intricate than the common cove-fillet-cyma inversa. I use a Bosch angle finder for the miters, which will also tell me the miter and bevel if I ask it to.

3. 
   WillGeorge | Dec 06, 2008 08:42pm | #5

   Wanda .. Take pictures and get a Lawyer!

   No self respecting trim carpenter would EVER get it upside down! Maybe a not-so-perfet-joint But never Upside down!

1. 
   Wanda200 | Dec 07, 2008 04:02am | #6

   Hi,

    

   Yes, I agree with you. I will be talking to my lawyer this week. I still can't believe he installed it upside down 2X.... It was the miters that caught my attention. They looked like they were cut with a chainsaw!

   The guy came in and had 1/2 the crown molding up and was asked to take it down. Then the following week he comes in and continues to put the rest of the crown molding up in the bedrooms upside down. My god! I'm speechless.

   Wanda

1. 
   joinerswork | Dec 08, 2008 05:14pm | #7

   Wanda,

   Well, everyone knows, you're supposed to cut that stuff upside down and backwards.  Makes sense, you'd install it the same way!

   Ray