Replies

1. 
   cftrucker1977 | Jan 14, 2008 04:19am | #1

   No, it's not going to hurt to cut it on a table saw.  It's non-ferrous metal and it cuts well on the TS as long as you have a good carbide tipped blade.  I've cut heavier aluminum on the TS than that.  Glue?...  I would probably use silicone caulk, and get it clamped down good.....let it cure.... and it should  be just fine.  As far as turning off the DC..........I don't know.  I suppose for safety sake I would not turn it on if I were afraid of a HOT piece of copper starting a fire....therefore I might unhook the plumbing to the saw until I was done cutting, if that were the case.

   Good luck......

1. 
   BriMcG | Jan 14, 2008 04:28am | #2

   Thanks for your help. I hadn't thought of silicone caulk. Construction adhesive would be good too I think. Easier to use then epoxy. In that amount anyway.

   Thx again, Brian.

1. 
   saschafer | Jan 14, 2008 04:56am | #3

   Cconstruction adhesive is really thick and goopy--it might be hard to get an even, thin layer. If I were doing it, I think I'd go with a low-viscosity epoxy.

   You'll probably get a better cut if you laminate the copper to the wood first, and then cut it to size.

   -Steve

    

1. 
   BriMcG | Jan 14, 2008 08:15am | #7

   Thanks Steve- JackPlane' suggestion to use contact cement sounds pretty good. I had planned to cut to size after laminating the copper to the substrate.

   Thx again, Brian

2. 
   frenchy | Jan 14, 2008 07:33pm | #12

   cftrucker 1977

    check that silcone chaulk. most formulas that I know attack the copper.  I would think that the bonding would be marginal with fluctuations in temp affecting the copper and fluctuation in humidity affecting the wood..

1. 
   cftrucker1977 | Jan 14, 2008 11:36pm | #13

   It could very well be so that the silicone does attack the copper.  I know I have used it for various projects and had good luck with it (so far).  If one would find an adhesive backed paper, etc.  to apply to the copper and then use the silicone, maybe that would eliminate the copper being attacked by the silicone.  There has to be something out there that would act as a barrier between the two.

   Regards,

   Joe

1. 
   frenchy | Jan 15, 2008 03:14am | #14

   Joe,

      There are a lot of adhesives that don't react to copper.. and yet will adhere well to both copper and wood.

2. 
   jackplane | Jan 14, 2008 05:10am | #4

   use a negative hook blade, to be safe, or else you may get "hammering" from the copper sheet.

   standard household ammonia is not strong enough to produce desired results w/o waiting a considerable time. you'd need stronger industrial stuff.patinas vary with formulas involved in the reaction, research helps.

   any tube formed adhesive will telegraph thru the copper- a better bet is contact cement or troweled adhesiveof silicone or construction adhesive.

   Expert since 10 am.

1. 
   cftrucker1977 | Jan 14, 2008 05:23am | #5

   I agree with one of the other replies.....  I suggested silicone, but I would make sure it is spread evenly on the board before clamping the copper to it, and yes.......make sure you secure the copper to the wood first .... B4 cutting.

2. 
   BriMcG | Jan 14, 2008 08:12am | #6

   Boy, there's a lot more to this then I had thought of. You're right, research. Thanks for the info. At this point it looks like contact cement to both surfaces and being careful when applying the copper. Just curious...I'm also applying salt which makes it a blue patina and forms some sort of crust. Will the crust hide any telegraphed marks do you think? Doesn't take much to leave a mark on this metal.

   Thanks, Brian

3. 
   WillGeorge | Jan 14, 2008 12:45pm | #8

   Just some links:

   http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_wwk/episode/0,2046,DIY_14350_26909,00.html

   AND..

   http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hobbies/article/0,2033,DIY_13951_2276377,00.html

   Davis Marks works a 'bit' with Copper. Maybe some ideas

   The links are for DIY and you have to look at the advertisements first .. BUT..

1. 
   BriMcG | Jan 15, 2008 08:56am | #19

   Wow..Thanks! I could have saved a lot of time if I had researched a little better. Very helpful. Thanks.

   Brian

4. 
   jako17 | Jan 14, 2008 01:54pm | #9

   You might address a question to sphere over at breaktime as he does a lot of copper.Secondly read up on patination as many of the colours are transient and require protection also toxic.

1. 
   BriMcG | Jan 15, 2008 08:24am | #18

   Thanks, I'll do that. Just went to a great site recommended by Rick (above). Learning a lot. I'll get with sphere.

   Thanks again, Brian

   Edited 1/15/2008 12:42 am ET by BriMcG

2. 
   BriMcG | Jan 16, 2008 09:06am | #24

   Thanks again for the referal to Sphere. Lots of good info.

   Brian

5. 
   Cincinnati | Jan 14, 2008 02:08pm | #10

   Use epoxy, You must get a clean smooth surface with even glue coverage for a professional result. It must be evenly spread.

   Å contact adhesive will probably work if you have one designed for metal. Unless you can afford to run a few tests, I recommend going with what is already proven to work.

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

1. 
   BriMcG | Jan 15, 2008 08:22am | #17

   Thanks very much. I think you're right. I need to run a quick test between epoxy and contact cement. I think it will come down to ease of use and the adhesive material telegraphing thru the copper. Of course any telegraphing would be my fault and not the adhesive.

   Thanks again, Brian

6. 
   RickL | Jan 14, 2008 05:27pm | #11

   You can cut it with a table saw. A negative hook blade is the best.  You must rough up the back of the copper with 80 grit paper and epoxy is preferred over contact cement.  I've done this  a lot with copper sheet as well as stainless steel while working as a Metalsmith for a number of years.

   Ammonia produces a green color. Suggest you look at the craft and sculpture sites for Patina info.

   Ron Young Sculptnouveau is one of the best for patina formulas.  His books are highly regarded in the sculpture world.  Many colleges use his casting book as a text.

   http://www.sculptnouveau.com/patinas1.html

    

1. 
   BriMcG | Jan 15, 2008 07:40am | #15

   Thanks Rick! I'll check out the link. I just finished fuming the copper with ammonia and salt and it looks like it is coming out great. Thanks for your reply.

   Brian

2. 
   BriMcG | Jan 15, 2008 08:14am | #16

   Hello Rick (again!), Just checked out the site. Really neat. I asked a question about the Dye Oxides and traditional patinas being used in the technique that I'm using (fuming copper with salt) and using adhesive  label designs as "resists" and am waiting for an answer before I order anything. Do you know if their patinas will harm the adhesive paper resists? Hope nobody gets peeved that I'm weaving off the WW a little here. I'm a wood worker thru and thru!! These things are a great idea for box lids and inlay into furniture pieces.

   Thanks again for your help.

   Brian

7. 
   troys | Jan 15, 2008 10:12am | #20

   There is a company that produces a laminate like Formica but with a copper surface, comes in 4x10 foot sheets. I don't remember which company it was, might of been Wilsonart. Would be very easy to apply this to 1/4 inch ply though. Call some of the wholesalers or custom counter-top makers and they could send you in the right direction. It's been a long time since I used this material but I seem to remember that it was several hundred dollars a sheet. Also came in brushed aluminium.

   Good luck

   Troy

1. 
   jackplane | Jan 15, 2008 04:55pm | #21

   Chemetal.Expert since 10 am.

1. 
   RickL | Jan 15, 2008 05:18pm | #22

   http://www.chemetalco.com/index.html  They were the first with the metal sheets. Mostly imported but they do some in house. Just on the other side of town from me along with Treefrog Veneer.  Some of the copper sheets are actually aluminum backed and they recommend any contact cement.

2. 
   BriMcG | Jan 16, 2008 09:04am | #23

   Thanks Troy, Sounds like it would work well but I think I can get the job done as well and cheaper by laminating it myself to the ply.

   Thanks for your help.

   brian

8. 
   9michael9 | Jan 16, 2008 04:43pm | #25

   I would put material this thin between plywood and then cut it.  Heat from a torch does neat things to copper.

1. 
   BriMcG | Jan 16, 2008 09:54pm | #26

   Thanks Michael, I'll sandwich it and cut it. Brian