This seems so simple, but I just can’t figure it out.
I’m working on a project that requires a precise L-shaped notch (3″x3″) in the corner of a piece of 3/4″ (expensive) stock. Trying to cut the notch with a table saw or circular saw will result in a groove that extends beyond the cut on the back side. A handsaw doesn’t provide the accuracy I’m looking for. I don’t have a bandsaw (probably the ideal solution), and my jigsaw is not equipped with a guide. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Replies
What are the dimensions of the board you want to notch?
John White
I have to cut a precise 3" x 3" square out of the bottom left and right corners of the piece.
The base piece is 16" x 20" x 3/4"
Material is walnut.
Horizontal dimensions: top = 16"; bottom = 10"
Vertical dimensions: each side = 17" (20" at center);
THanks for your help!
The handiest tool I have found for your situation is a Fein Multi-Master.
It cuts by oscillating rather than reciprocating or rotating. It's a pricey little devil but cuts notches and mortises quickly and accurately. I bought one last year. The first thing I attempted with it was a mortise and tenon joint in 4"x4" cedar to make a light work table. it cut perfect joints in minutes. You need to practice on scrap to get the feel of it; also, it helps to chisel a starter notch or groove as it bounces a bit until it has a groove to guide it.
Steve Doane
The piece isn't rectangular?In any case, if you stand the piece on edge against your miter fence you can make the two cuts with the kerf being the same on both sides. You may not be able to reach to the inside corner of the notch if the blade on your table saw doesn't raise to 3" high at maximum height, but you'll come close and the last little bit can be finished easily with a hand saw. I would bolt a larger auxiliary face to your miter gauge to give you something to clamp the stock onto.Alternatively, raise the blade to full height and cut the two sides of the notch with the stock flat on the table, stopping a little bit short of the corner so the back side of the kerf doesn't extend past the corner, and then finish the last 3/8" or so with a hand saw.John White
Thanks for the suggestions. I had pretty much come to same conclusion. I used the table saw and cut the remaining distance with a mitre saw. Result was acceptable. Also did a little research on the Fein Multi-Master. Neat tool, but way out of my budget (not to mention $40 for the square cut blade). Oh well. Thanks again for ideas.
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