Replies

1. 
   roc | Jan 31, 2013 09:59pm | #1

   Do you want cheep or interesting and versatile ?

   Well . . . you have to spend even more money for my solutions but they are fantastic tools to have . . .

   http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=112

   You can attach a curved chunk of wood to the bottom or use their axillary fence.

   This also will do the job and has a short curved fence

   http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1224

   Orrrr . . 

   you could make a little plane from wood to do the job ; see " carriage planes " which tend to have curved soles or sides.

1. 
   actuary | Jan 31, 2013 10:52pm | #2

   You're right, these are more expensive options. So far, the rabbet router bit seems like best overall solution. I haven't been able to figure out how to set up a template to use with, say, a pattern bit that would do the job without having to buy a specialized bit.

1. 
   acornw | Feb 01, 2013 10:15am | #4

   May Not Need a Curved Rabbett

   Depending upon the depth of your arch (chord length, radius and altitude of the arch), you may be able to saw a straight rabbet in the frame. This implies a gentle arch. The mirror can also then be square cornered. The back is not seen, I assume.

   And by extension, even a hlaf round top rail can be made in 3 or 4 sections, each with a straight rabbet, to accommodate the mirror.

   There is always lots more than one way to do about anything.

2. 
   Westchester | Feb 01, 2013 06:31am | #3

   Frame

   You can make the rabbit before or after assembing the frame.  If you use a pattern trim bit with the bearing near to the shank rather than on the bottom - the bit will follow any template cut out you tack down.

   SA

1. 
   actuary | Feb 01, 2013 01:53pm | #6

   With a pattern trim bit, the bearing's diameter is the same as the cutter, so how can I create a template that will let me just cut in the workpiece to leave a "ledge" (the rabbet)? It seems like I'd have to have a bearing that's smaller than the cutter--and that's what the rabbet bit has.

3. 
   actuary | Feb 01, 2013 01:43pm | #5

   can't do sections

   From an aesthetic point of view, I wanted the top piece to be whole so the grain pattern flows naturally. I'm working with leopardwood which has a striking grain and doesn't come in a wide board. The curved top piece is about 14" across and has a maximum radius to the outside edge of 5 1/2 " (the width of the frame is about 2"). So far the rabbet bit still seems like the best approach.

4. 
   mrossk | Feb 04, 2013 09:29pm | #7

   Personally, for the little bit of money it costs rabbeting bits are a great investment. You'll use one all the time. That said, with just a little bit more work, a template, a straight bit and a guide bushing on your router, or even the router table if you can set up your table with one, will accomplish the same thing.

1. 
   actuary | Feb 06, 2013 11:23am | #8

   Successful solution

   I bit for the rabbet router bit and it was well worth it. (Whiteside rabbetting set, 1/2" shank, with different size bearings, $50 on Amazon) The cutter is so sharp that I was able to cut a 1/4" by 1/4" rabbet in one pass. Just ease into the cut to get the bearing in contact with the workpiece and run it through.

   Thanks, everyone, for your responses.