Hello:
I am building frames for some internal storm windows that will have a rabbetted back edge for glass. I have the stiles and rails milled, and cut to width and length. The rails and stiles will be constructed with bridle joints. I plan to use an ogee profile on the inside edges and miter the inside corners.
My question relates to the sequence of cuts. I was assuming the correct cut sequence would be as follows: 1) cut and fit the mortise and tenons for the bridle joint; 2) rabbet the back edge; 3) ogee profile the front edge; and 4) miter the corners.
Is the above sequence correct?…or should the rabbet and ogee profile be done first?
thanks
Replies
Tom,
I would stick with your stated cutting sequence. By cutting the bridle joint first, any tearout should be removed when you profile the edges. Also, you are cutting the joints in square stock, which, depending on your method of cutting the bridle joints, may mean that the stock is easier to secure, resulting in better cuts. Miter last.
Chris,
Thanks for the advise. I am planning to cut the bridle joints on a table saw with dado set-up...and so keeping the stock square for that makes sense as you confirmed.
Tom
tom,
I recommend that your sequence begin with drawing the joint first, full size, and making a mock up in scrap.
There are some issues with the shoulders of the rails' tenons that are best understood by seeing the joint from both sides, front and back.
Do you plan to miter and waste away just the molding, or the whole edge of the stile?
This may or may not have an effect on the width of the tenon, and correspondingly, the mortise as well.
Is the molding's depth greater than, equal to, or less than, the depth of the rabbet? This may mean that the tenons' shoulders need to be offset.
These questions, and their answers, may determine where you need to locate the mortise, (its distance from the face of the stock, that is , if it needs to be aligned with the fillet of the molding.
In making sash, typically, I mold the stiles and rails, locate and cut the the mortises, cut the rabbets, and then cut the tenons, offsetting the tenon shoulders to accomodate the molding's fillet on the front, and the rabbet's depth on the back. Finally, I miter (or cope) the molding to fit at the corners last.
Ray
I want some of those doors/windows! My they are nice. Where do they go, what structure and look? Hard to guess the size, about 4 to 5' tall?
Morgan
Morgan,
The taller one is for my current project, a largish hanging corner cabinet. The door is about 40" tall, the cupboard will be around 50" altogether. It will have quarter (or would that be 1/8th since they are on a 45* corner?) columns, a broken arch top, and carved rosettes.
While I was at it, I made the smaller one in yellow pine. It will go in the gable end of the shop, to add some illumination to the loft.
Ray
Ray I would love one for my gable end, if only I had a gable! I don't think it would fit in my garage door. I have 150 year old corner cabinet in my home, original glass in it still. Early American working mans style out of walnut. Milk paint interior. Your door will be fabulous and quite the look. What type of glass will you choose? Are you doing lights inside as well for the cyrstal goodies that may be displayed?
Did you make the pine one as prototype or concurant with the project piece? I use knotty alder alot, cheap on sale, and use it for mockups of parts and joints I can't visualize. Looking at your comment about the joint intersection, it sounds like you built parts of it first as well.
Morgan
Morgan,
The customer is locating old glass for the door. No lights inside, as it is very traditional. the customer collects antiques, and is only getting the reproduction cupboard because he hasn't been able to locate an old one of this particular type and regional origin.
The pine door was made concurrently but first, if that makes any sense. I essentially used it to "prove" my tooling set ups, before I ran the cherry. Usually, I simply get out a little additional stock for set-ups, but I wanted a door/window of this type for the shop, so when the opportunity arose...
I've built enough sash to not need to make a prototype first, but I still recall the first sash door I made that hade 9 lites, which ended up 4 different sizes, instead of all the same. haha
Ray
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