Glued up a table top out of Paduk for a side table. It is 16″ X 64″ out of two 8″ wide boards I resawed from one 8 quarter board. It is 3/4″ thick and I beveled the bottom 5″ for the ends and the sides 2″ so that the edges are 1/2″ thick. I have now, as I get ready to make the apron and attach the legs, found that the top is cupped by 3/32″ across the 16″ width and about the same along the 64″ length. It is also twisted. If I lay a straight edge from corner to corner one way, there is a 7/32″ gap the other way is only see the 3/32″ gap for an average of 5/32″ twist. You can see it with winding sticxks also. What can I do at this point? I have too much time and material in to give up.
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Replies
Has the panel been stored in a position that restricted air getting to both sides equally? If so, raise it on stickers, weight the top and it may very well flatten.
You can also try misting the convex side and again stickering and weighting.
Sometimes nothing works.
Also, can you remove the cup by pressing with your hands using minimal weight? If so, your method of attaching the panel to the supports may allow you to exert enough pressure to remove the bow.
Yes, it was mostly stored on the end of my new table saw, the long table version of the new SawStop saw. I will try your suggestions right now. I can correct the twist by bending with my hands.
What can I do at this point?
I'd let it sit for a week or so and get out your GOOD plane!
I am trying out Howie's suggestion now. It looks like a good one to me. I'll let it sit on my work bench, sticked with weights on it. I also clamped the corners to the bench. Should I not have done that? Bench isn't perfect either, but it is at least O.K. Your suggestion of using my good hand plane brings up another subject. Is my good plane the Great Neck brand I bought for very little, or the Anant rabbet plane? I had a friend with a small surface grinder for the Great Neck and, amazingly, it does work now. I don't have one of the fancy planes I read about. I will probably end up using a scaper on this wood as it seems to tear at some placed no matter which way I plane it. I am still learning about using a plane. The Anant is probably worth what it cost. I wanted the rabbet feature for another project. I does work also.
You should never store a panel in a way that restricts air from getting to both sides equally. It's best to sticker it at least 3/4" above any surface or to stand it on edge--no slant. If you have a concrete slab floor, raise the edge off the floor as moisture wicks through concrete. I generally leave the panel in its cauls until I am ready to work with it.Howie.........
I'd let it sit for a week or so and get out your GOOD plane!..
Sorry I was just funnin' ya.. At the wrong time.. I do not think all the time...
I also clamped the corners to the bench..
I do not think so... Wood is wood and if ya got a nasty stick it will just go back to what it wants to..
Some sticks you just have to toss or use it for something else.. But if you have TIME.. Just a few light cuts with the plane... Let it sit awhile.. A day? See what it does.. If anything... If you do not cut away very much.. Sometimes you can get it flat.. Usually to skinny for the project though.. But worth a try...
F and C,
I'm just guessing, but the problem may have arisen in the first place because you made it up from resawn 8/4 stock that was not evenly dry through and through. Padauk is by nature very stable once it is dry, so either it picked up moisture as already suggested, or else you created an unbalanced situation when you glued up the freshly resawn pieces.
In either case, attach the top to the table apron with good sturdy clips that can hold it down flat, and it will in time accomodate.
DR
I had thought about the wood cupping because I had resawn it. It did cup when I resawed it and it had to flatten again. I built the jig (sled?) described in an issure of FWW to go through my DeWalt planer. My jointer is only 6 inches wide and the boards were about 8-1/4 inch wide. I think I got them nice and flat, but they probably continued to cup. After 2-3 days of wetting the back and putting weight on it, it looks a little better. I'll probably end up planing it some. If I have to, I will buy a long plane. Not that I need to spend the money right now. The Lee Valley jointer plane is 18" long. The Lie-Neilson is 22 or 24 inches long and cost a lot more. Which is better? When I buy the cheaper tool, I often reget it because I then think I should have gotten the other one.
For anyone who is interested: After 3 days of wetting the back and weighting it with about 100#, it hasn't flattened out very much. I ordered a Lie-Neilen #7. It will have a few more days of flattening treatment because Lie-Neilsen is out of blades for the #7 and won't be able to ship for about 1 week from now. Expensive solution, and it may be too thin when I am through, but I can use the new plane on other projects later. I like having tools just as most of us, but expensive ones like that I don't buy until need them the first time. . . or I find a bargain, or some other excuse!
or some other excuse You should have tolds us that up-front... We would go along with you! Maybe even pass the hat fer a fer dollers...
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