I’m redoing my kitchen an am trying to decide between a local cabinetmaker and Crown Point cabinets. Has anyone here used CP? Any opinions?
The details of my job are – paint grade, plywood construction, face frame, inset doors. I have 24’ of lower cabinets, 15’ upper, 2’ wide pantry with pull out shelves, shallow 4’ wide pantry with fixed shelves, 2’ wide closet, 5’ by 5’ island and 3’ bench with drawers.
Both the local cabinet maker and CP are about the same price (between $35 – $40,000).
Local cabinet maker – the cabinets are to be made out of ¾” pre-finished Maple plywood. Drwers are 1/2″ prefinished. Cabinet backs are ¼”. The drawers will have PVC edge banding and Accuride 3832 slides. The face frame is beech. The doors are Shaker style with a ¼” thick center panel. Mortise butt hinges for the doors.
Crown Point – ½” pre-finished maple plywood cabinets. Backs are ½”. Drawers are 5/8” maple, dovetailed with Blum undermount slides. Doors have ½” center panels. Adjustable barrel hinges for the doors.
I have questions about both bids. For Crown Point I’m concerned about the thickness of the cabs. Is ½” sturdy enough? Everyone else is using ¾”.
For the local cabinetmaker, ¼” for the center panel seems thin. Is it? Should I expect better quality drawers (plywood vs. hardwood/dovetail) for the price quoted or does plywood seem ok.
Thanks
Matt
Replies
Just a few thoughts from someone who has recently bought cabinets, and made only a few. I would look particularly at the drawers and the drawer slides. Blum undermounts, ie. tandems, are a major step up from the Accuride 3832. I certainly prefer the look of solid drawer sides to plastic edge banding.
I wouldn't be too concerned about the 1/2" cab. sides, especially when bolstered with 1/2" backs.
As important as the construction specifications you discuss, I'd be particularly concerned about how much flexibility is possible with cabinet sizes to avoid things like unnecessary filler strips and the like. (ie. can you get a base cabinet 23 3/4" wide without doubling the price.)
Send an email to Oldusty, king of the box makers he is.
-----------_o
---------_'-,>
-------(*)/ (*) http://www.EarthArtLandscape.com
Matt,
Heres a list of shops in the LA area, they are members of the Cabinmakers Association:
Ask to get references, get ones you can go talk to and see the work they have done. Make a wish list of what you would like to have in your new kitchen. Talk to the shop and see what they offer that meets your needs. Just remember that custom shops will work with you a lot better than you will get from any of the big factory shops. Good luck, and let me know what happens. I wish you were in my area, mind you I have done some long distance jobs in the past.
Taigert
3201 Exposition Place, Unit B,Los Angeles,CA
Phone: 323-299-8696
1724 E. Calaveras Street,Altadena,CA
Phone: 626-794-9952
http://www.sawdustltd.com
211 Arena Street,El Segundo,CA
Phone: 310-261-2561
3444 Belle River Drive,Hacienda Heights,CA
Phone: 562-544-2468
6038 E. Appian Way, Suite C,Long Beach,CA
Phone: 562-987-1898
1153 N Fountain Way,Anaheim,CA
Phone: 714-414-1074
4514 Ish Drive,Simi Valley,CA
Phone: 805-577-9400
http://www.mieckeconstruction.com
34821 Katherinel Avenue,Acton,CA
Phone: 661-618-2611
http://www.dkcabinets.net
2670 Walnut Suite D,Tustin,CA
Phone: 714-731-7569
You seem to be concerned about certain construction/design elements of your cabinets. In my opinion, the local cabinetmaker will work with you in getting just what you want, I'm not sure large companies will be willing to make changes like you are suggesting. I could be wrong but these are the questions you need to ask each party.
As a fellow cabinmaker, I would of course like to see a local guy get the job.
Just an update - Crown Point has a kitchen installed in a design showroom near me so I went to look at it. The construction of their cabinets seemed well made. I was less than impressed with the installation of the doors and drawers. The reveal on most of the doors was off. Nothing lined up and the reveal was uneven. Several of the doors stuck and you could see where the finish was rubbing off because of the poor fit.
Considering what they charge I was expecting a much better fit.Matt
Matt,
If they are proud to show off that level of workmanship in a shrowroom, what kind of work can you expect to be in your home. That is a red flag to me.
Did you speak to any of the names on the list I sent you, from the CMA shops in your area.
Taigert
Are your cabinet doors full overlay? If so forget the face frame and use the 3/4" plywood for the sides.
All the face frame does is make the drawers and access to the cabinets smaller.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled