Greetings.
One of the 30 items on my todo list is to replicate
the exorbitantly expensive wooden shudders that we
had installed in our bedroom in some other rooms in
the house.
The interesting thing is that the slats, for lack
of a better term are not square across their width,
actually, they have two *very* obtuse angles to them
on the top and bottom.
Here’s a close of up of the components to which I
refer to as ‘slats’, sorry if there’s an official
term I’m mangling:
http://s3.amazonaws.com/finewoodworking.s3.tauntoncloud.com/app/uploads/2019/04/28115158/home2.jpg
This is actually nice because they sit more flat when
shut and seem to produce a nice tight seal against
the light.
This is a rough cross section I drew up, the colored in
part is the actual shape of the slat. The square itself
is what I imagine the original stock was shaped like.
Question:
Is this angle achieved with 4 passes through a shaper
or router with some sort of tall, conical bit, like
the one I drew up, or is there a more obvious cut or
process that allows him to achieve this subtle taper…
possibly a pass through the table saw with the blad at
80 degrees?
Thanks in advance.
Replies
Board,
Interesting problem.
I'd go with the vertical raised panel bit as shown here http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/raisvert.html - similar to your drawing.
Four passes - however, keeping the stock verticle will be tough for the third and fourth pass - you'll need some sort of wedge against the fence for those passes.
Of course you could also do this with a horizontal mounted router but the wedge would rest on the table instead of the fence...
Mark
Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with an ax.
Visit Dust Maker
Board, once you determine the angle on that 'Lozenge' shaped louver slat,you can use your table saw, (set at that angle) to slice off the face's two sections; then spline and glue two sections to achieve the shape you need'
To insure that the second slice on each slat stays true, you'll have to make a wood auxiliary fence with the same taper to attach to your rip fence.
I'd cut all pieces to thickness first,( over size in length,) then adjust the blade angle and rip fence spacing and run all the first angled cuts(Bevels)
Next attach the auxiliary fence and re-adjust the fence setting to run the opposite face's bevels
After ripping all to length and glue up, bore pivot holes and glue in the pins (hardwood dowels. Steinmetz.)
Edited 7/29/2005 4:21 pm ET by steinmetz
board, look at the cross-section again. can you make two passes instead of four? your opposite sides look parallel. your first cut has support, but your second cut will be riding on a thin edge. some type of sled is in order.
Very good Jericho. I believe you got it perfectly. Only two cuts are necessary.
please excuse my spelling.
Lookers' to me like them Fake wood shutters.. NOT that that is bad..
I do not think you can make them cheaper!
Just me...
Edit:: Just me so try some scrap first.. The side of a Dovetail bit will make a pretty good ANGLE!
Edited 7/29/2005 3:21 pm ET by Will George
I made shutters for 7 years when I first started out. We made these and several other profiles on an old XL molder. Today, we make these as needed with 2 or 4 passes in the planer.
Make a fixed sub-bed for the planer table to hold the stock at the appropriate angle, wax it a bit, and run your slats. Depending upon the profile, you may need to make two sub beds if you need to run four passes.
To plan the cuts draw an accurate end section and do the layout. I'll wait for the "How do I get them to move?" and "How do I tie them all together" questions.
Dave S
With a good ripping blade (Freud make one) and the right setup you could do this on your table saw pretty quickly, and go straight from the saw to final assembly with very little, if any, cleanup.
You'll need feather boards and may want to think about setting up a temporary fence to the left of the blade if your saw tilts right. Making a jig for your jointer/planer will take longer, and involve a few trial setups and passes.
If you like pushing a hand plane, in soft wood, you could do the whole job by hand. Depends on how many shutters you need and how good you are with a plane (and it would be best with a longish hand plane, ideally a jointer).
If it were me, I'd stay well away from the router approach. Big cutter, heroic cuts, difficult to control the relatively small oieces, and keep them accurately indexed.
0.06% of the world's people are Kiwis
Edited 7/29/2005 7:46 pm ET by Malcolm
I'm wonder if after I make the cut, I could tape
the piece back together so I can rerun that side
against the fence.similar to the tapered leg jig work done on the
pencil post bed in WWJ this month..
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