Corrosion on cast iron machines
I live close to the ocean and my work shop is not so well insulated. So I have a lot of problems with corrosion on metal parts. The surfaces of my Saw and planer which are made from cast iron and my hand planes all suffering the same problem with surface corrosion. I know that there are some good commercial wax products around but which one is the best for wood workers and are there any cheep alternatives like candle wax? Also what would be a good preparation for this surfaces prior to applying wax.
Thanks for helping me with this one.
Replies
Yetty,
It's a huge problem here in Central Florida, regardless of shop conditions(insulated, sealed, hermetic, whatever) almost constant high humidity is a fact of life and it causes corrosion everywhere and unremittingly.
Having said that I've found the TopCoat product to be very good at keeping all of my tools from corroding and yet still usable (as in no sticky, gooey or otherwise unacceptable residue left). I've developed a habit of just giving every metal tool I use a quick spritz(it comes in a spray can) and a wipe down as I'm storing it away for another days use. When I come back to use the tool it's in great shape. Makes an especially nice and slick surface for my tablesaw which makes the saw a lot safer to use, as well.
I did use WD40 before finding TopCoat and it works great for a lot of tools and power tools. But, be careful anything coming into contact with wd40 will not be "finish-able" as the oil will get into the wood and ruin any finish you try to apply. Which is why I found TopCoat as obviously I couldn't use wd40 for the tablesaw and other tools. This will be a consideration for any product you use, including waxes, by the way, so while TopCoat is probably not the only choice, be careful what you do use, where you are using it.
KWL
We use to live in Jacksonville, FL and in my shop, use to be a 2 car garage, I have a dehumidifier. It ran most of the time but I kept the cast iron tops waxed with Minwax paste wax and really did not have a problem. I did the same thing after moving to Corpus Christi, TX but that move had a lot more hand planes and better equipment and did not have a problem there either.
Greg
Yetty,
I'm sorry for not answering sooner but I have been traveling a lot.
The two responses you have already received contain good advice. Both Topcoat and ordinary furniture wax, any brand, work well for preventing rust on steel and cast iron surfaces. Of the two, furniture wax is the less expensive but takes a bit more time to apply than the spray on Topcoat. Both will need to be renewed regularly to keep the rust from forming again.
If the machine surfaces are clean, they don't need any surface preparation. If they are already rusted, remove the rust with a fine abrasive; sand paper, steel wool, and Scotchbrite all work well. Using a small amount of a penetrating oil with the abrasive will sometimes help in removing the rust and will keep the dust from getting all over everything nearby.
Storing your hand tools in a closed cabinet with a small heat source, such as a 40 watt light bulb in the bottom area, will prevent rust from forming on them, especially if you also give the tools an occasional coat of wax.
John White
John and all:
As an alternative to lightbulbs, there are some low-heat rods designed for gun cabinets and safes to to keep away condensation and rust. They are just like metal tubes with cords or batteries. I thnk one brand is called "goldenrod." As you can imagine, it is a big deal for expensive guns to develop rust, and these things have been on the market for years and seem to be well accepted.
Joe,
Thanks for the reminder about these, I knew they existed but never used one. As always, I was thinking low tech and cheap, but in the long run, the gun cabinet heaters are probably the better approach since they will never burn out the way a light bulb will.
John W.
John:
The bulb will certanly serve. The devices I mentioned are called gun dehumidifiers. they run $20 to $30 or so. I don't have one because I don't have a gun safe, but I have to spend a lot of time polishing my shotguns and rubbing them with silicone.
Edited 3/9/2007 8:31 pm ET by Joe Sullivan
John:
What do you think of BoeShield for corrosion protection on tools?
It works well to prevent corrosion, since it was originally designed primarily for that purpose, rather than being a polish, rust remover, and/or a lubricant, though it is claimed to be all of those too. It works best if left on the metal as a film, without buffing it off, after spraying it on, which means that the tools need to be wiped down, possibly with a solvent, when they are used next.
I don't have any information on its affect on finishing if a bit of it accidentally got on the wood, but it is commonly used and there are no reported problems that I am aware of. Their literature claims that it won't affect wood finishing.
John White
Thanks.
J
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