Replies

1. 
   saschafer | Jun 03, 2008 08:14pm | #1

   You might want to try one of the new Freud Quadra-Cut router bits. They're supposed to cut more cleanly.

   -Steve

    

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jun 03, 2008 10:08pm | #2

   I normally don't suggest cuts that might be considered dangerous but sometimes if you go over the cut in the direction of the cutters it will reduce/eliminate the fuzz, often referred to as a climb cut.

   Also, taking several light passes instead of making the whole cut in one pass often helps.

   I wouldn't trust my hand with trying to cut the fuzz out with a knife but might use a sandpaper block after assembly with a light stroke on the flats will remove just enough material to release the fuzzies.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

3. 
   oldusty | Jun 03, 2008 10:30pm | #3

     GT ,

             How much fuzz are you talking about ?

      And is it on the thin edge that creates the Joint you see from the face side .

    The rail end as you know is endgrain so for very thin short fuzz that is often present I just glue and clamp em up . The fuzz actually in normal conditions just compresses and with glue and clamp pressure it disappears .

                 dusty

1. 
   gtieszen | Jun 04, 2008 01:19am | #4

   Yes, that's the one.  The fuzz on the edge that butts up to the stick cut (stile) on the face side when assembled.

   There is enough fuzz, that if it were bent down and compressed into the joint, would probably cause a problem, but I wanted to know if just making sure the fuzz was up out of the joint when glued, would it create an acceptable looking joint by just sanding it away then, or would it be better to take the time to first trim it back, thus eliminating it, then do the glue-up.

   Other suggestions offered will be heeded the next time I build paneled doors , but right now I have about 30 doors that are all routed and waiting for assembly, and I'm just not sure how the best way to handle the aforementioned problem.

   I'd rathe use your suggestion, it's quicker.   Maybe the best way would be to put one together and see how it turns out.  If it isn't what I want, I'll do it the other way.

   Thanks for the input!

   GT

1. 
   joinerswork | Jun 04, 2008 01:45am | #5

   GT,

   One way to avoid this is to wait til after making the cope cut to run the sticking on the rails.   This avoids the fuzzies, as well as the risk of breaking out as the cope cutter exits the rail.

   You want/need the sticking on the stiles, to be able to set up the cope cut, so it involves setting up the sticking cutter twice (unless you have two shapers/ routers).

   On your doors already cut out, sanding the molding before glue-up is probably your best bet.

   Ray

1. 
   oldusty | Jun 04, 2008 04:58am | #7

   Ray & Keith ,

           Sounds like it is not the tear out you get from running the stile then the rail or cope ends but the long edge of the rail end fuzz .

          My guess he removed a tad too much meat from the rail end actually may have made them shorter by a bit .

                        dusty and tired

2. 
   KeithNewton | Jun 04, 2008 01:50am | #6

   I usually cut my rails to length and cut the cope before I cut the edge profile along the edge. I usually even get the top and bottom rails out of the same board, chosen for consistent straight grain pattern, so the cope is cut across both parts in one pass, before even ripping them to width, followed by the stick pattern. If the cope is done first, there will never be any issues where the cope cutter exits on one end. You may be able to go back and run the stick one more pass, just taking a few thousandths, if you still have that set up.

4. 
   hammer1 | Jun 04, 2008 05:34am | #8

   A little fuzz is pretty common with router work. It's easily removed but don't pick or pull on it. Take a stick and stand it up straight. Then use one forward stroke with a flat sanding block, don't go back and forth, just a single stroke away from the joint. In the picture, I would be going right to left for the left side, opposite for the other side of the dado. You can only do one side at a time with something like a dado cut.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

   
1. 
   gtieszen | Jun 04, 2008 02:59pm | #9

   Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give it a try.

   GT 

5. 
   abc60 | Jun 06, 2008 11:33pm | #10

   i sand it before i glue

6. 
   9michael9 | Jun 07, 2008 05:20pm | #11

   Use a Gillette Fusion.  The blades are very expensive though.