Replies

1. 
   RickL | Jul 08, 2004 12:31am | #1

   http://www.mcmaster.com has chucks as well as http://www.mscdirect.com. I think you would be better off selling the radial arm and putting the money toward a slot mortiser. I think you will find it to cost more to convert your saw than getting the Grizzly G0540 which a few folks have been using quite nicely as a slot mortiser.

   http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0540&gid=044E13FB-685A-498F-89E3-6CC57961B4C1&site=grizzly

   Once you experience the slot mortiser you will wonder why you waited so long!!!

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/7/2004 5:33 pm ET by rick3ddd

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jul 14, 2004 08:22am | #7

   The Grizzly link you included went to their home page.

   Do you have a more direct link to the particular slot mortiser you are recommending?

   Thanks.

1. 
   RickL | Jul 14, 2004 12:43pm | #8

   That's weird. Link was copied from the mortiser page and when I tried it after you mentioned going to the home page it wouldn't go to the mortiser.

   http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G0540&gid=6DD4D137-CBE1-4F2D-A9CE-5A9B1D437FF1&site=grizzly

   If it does it again type G0540 in the Grizzly search window.

1. 
   nikkiwood | Jul 14, 2004 03:32pm | #9

   Thanks. The new link went straight to the machine.

   What are the bit choices for such a machine?

1. 
   RickL | Jul 14, 2004 07:54pm | #10

   For mortising HSS 2 flute endmills for machining aluminum work great.  You need to put a bit of 625 loctite on the shaft as the G0540 is primarily designed as a horizontal drill but it seems to be getting positive reports so far. If I didn't have a slot mortiser already I'd certainly be willing to spend that pittance of $330 delivered. Can't even buy a motor for that price. No way anyone could modify a radial arm saw to come close to the same performance. Sears used to sell all kinds of junk to add on a RAS.

2. 
   Michmesquite | Jul 08, 2004 11:44pm | #2

   Gotta agree with Rick. I have a slot mortiser on my MiniMax combo and it is neat, very neat.

   This the first time I have seen the Grizzly unit. I would take a look if I were you. Looks nice. The price is right and the capacity is good for a machine in this class.

   _________________________________

   Michael in San Jose

   "In all affairs it's a healthy thing now and then to hang a question mark on the things you have long taken for granted." Bertrand Russell 

3. 
   MBL | Jul 11, 2004 02:58am | #3

   Friend,

   the 'tool' end of your radial arm saw may very well fit an inexpenssive (less than $20.00) threaded Jacobs chuck sold at Sears in a blister.

   Then you'd make a simple, clampable elevated table with a stop and lever-clamps to hold the work-piece.

   The table would be just high enough for motor clearance and you'd use not drill-bits but end-mills.

   You'd have to figure a means to stop the cut-depth, probably at the arm. Some RAS have that feature already, but there'd be several ways to do it.

   You can also put a router on it, but really, you could tune the RAS and get some good use for it.

   One important use is, unquestionable, cutting dadoes with a dado blade.

   To avoid moving the arm, you can use a plywood triangle cut exactly at 45 degrees as a guide, that being the most common cut. You can also improve the safety with lever-release clamps, and can even make a roating fence for varied angles, as the one here. That way the RAS is always cutting in a straight forward line and stays true.

   -mbl-

1. 
   CAnderson | Jul 11, 2004 03:35am | #4

   Making jigs like this to adapt RAS is a quick way to save time I have found also mbl. Keeping it set with a standard known measure of depth, cut size, and to molded cuts you can soar through a lot of material accurately in a short time what ever you need to do. Now you got it!

   In a kitchen cabinet company there are certain things we stock next to the "specialty" equipment areas. Like for instance we store oak plywood rips at 11 1/4" and 23 1/4", oak is our standard material, right above a overhead router that is assembled only to do 90 degree 1/4"D x 3/4"T cuts. You can knock out the carcasses quick this way. Same with the faceframes that I make, the ripped stock is right over the accurately set miter saw. You have your cut list, just knock them out and have a cup of coffee to spare. - Curt

4. 
   tailsorpins | Jul 12, 2004 05:56pm | #5

   I recall several clever designs for radial-arm saw jigs and fixtures being published in "Using your radial arm saw" type publications, both by Delta and Sears, and I'm sure there are many more.  A slot mortising table was included in both of those mentioned.  Some remarkably clever!

   My old Sears radial arm saw carries a ourboard end mounted bracket supporting a plunge router with foot pedal/linkage for use as an overarm pin router.  Saw motor hasn't been powered for fifteen years!

   Good luck 

5. 
   pete1021 | Jul 14, 2004 08:05am | #6

   I have the top handle Bosch and really like the feel of it.

   Pete-- Deep in Cajun Country

   One Nation UNDER GOD

   <img src="http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/90/90613/folders/85890/874182movingplane1.gif" width="119" height="41">