I have a 8/4 top that is starting to separate a tiny bit between the joined boards. Its basically 4 5″ wide planks of cherry glued and biscuited together. Any ideas on how to repair this and what could have caused it other than just your normal wood movement? Its very slight, you cant see it but you can feel just the slightest edge with you finger
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Replies
Is it separating, or is the glue creating a small "ridge". The latter is fairly common with PVA glue and is glue "creep".
Are you sure it's splitting? Glue creep can create a small ridge of glue at the glue line. It's fairly common with PVA glue.
steve I dont think its glue. This piece has been finished for a few weeks now. Would the glue creep at this point?
Another possibility is that the board on one side of the joint is flat sawn while the second board is quarter sawn. The boards will shrink and expand differently, enough to show up as a small step at the joint in thick stock.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
john
Here is a picture of the end grain. The "separation" is happening between the two boards marked 1 and 2. The boards seem to have the same cut.
If the grain orientation is consistent down the whole length of the joint then my suggested cause wouldn't apply.
Were the two pieces of wood both acclimated to your shop long enough that they were both at the same moisture content? If one board had a higher moisture content than the other, it would shrink or expand differently than the drier piece until they matched each other in moisture content.
John W.
John
Yeah all 4 boards where bought at the same time and in the shop for months. The only thing i can think is its from when i brought it in side? So any advice on how to take the edge off?
If all of the boards came into the shop at the same time and were allowed to stabilize in moisture content under the same conditions, and were stacked horizontally rather than vertically, they should be expanding and contracting equally at this point.
If the boards were stored vertically, the ends of the boards closer to the floor can be quite a bit higher in moisture content than the top ends of the same board, no matter how long the wood sits in the shop, and this can cause problems with unequal wood movement later on.
In any case, no matter what the cause of the problem, and the glue forming a raised bead along the joint is also a possibility, the easiest way to flatten the surface would be to clean up the top with a cabinet scraper.
John W.
If the boards were stored vertically, the ends of the boards closer to the floor can be quite a bit higher in moisture content than the top ends of the same board, no matter how long the wood sits in the shop, and this can cause problems with unequal wood movement later on. this could be the culprit. Due to the lack of flat space in the shop they where stored on end. Even after glue up. Once the carcass was complete I then placed them on it so from that point on they would have been horizontal. I guess the best course of action would be to let it sit in my house for a while to let all movement take place then fix it at one time. Thanks much for all the help.
A good plan, give it a few months to equalize before you do anything.
John W.
Hi, I think your problem lies with your no.2 board this has the pith or heart very clossed ringed causing the ends to curl up more than the rest also no.1 board has the heart rings in the same form[ not in conntention]or opposite jmop,let it settle for a few weeks before getting back to the forum God Bless America from accross the pond
Ok so it might be the glue. I can feel the edge going in both directions. One would think that if it was just one board moving you would only be able to fill the edge going in one direction.
Glue creep can happen several weeks after finishing, and as Steve pointed out, is quite common with PVA glues. It is probably the problem you are encountering. Scraping and refinishing are probably in order at this point.
Jeff
You guys think i can just buff it out with some steel wool?
Nice rich color. What did you use to stain and finish your table?
Pre stain, Danish oil then just a wax buff.
What is pre-stain? Is it like a sanding sealer? Or did you use a cherry stain of some kind?
I'm making a cherry cab for my daughter and am torn between putting a cherry stain (minwax) on it.. or just using my favorite Maloof oil/poly.
The cab was made from cherry boards I had from other project and none of it color matches.. and there is some sap wood.. so a stain may be called for.
Thanks,
Bill
The pre stain is just a minwax pre stain. It basically soaks in and helps absorb and even out the danish oil, Its supposed to help even out the finish and also avoid blotching. Here is the link with some more pictures of the dresser. http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=35767.17
Thanks for the tip.. cherry does get blotchy.. sort of like pine.
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