Replies

1. 
   StanleyNiemiec | Nov 15, 2002 11:37pm | #1

   People mix woods all the time for cutting boards  --  sometimes they get away with it and sometimes it is something that shows.

   As each of these woods has different expansion/shrinkage coefficients, on a theroretical basis, you could be creating a situation  where thickness change could be a factor and noticable, especially if the ambient relative humidity environment is highly variable.  If two contiguous boards have significantly different coefficients (one very high; one very low) the table top could show raised or lower boards and would no longer appear flat.  I think the differential shrinkage might also create havoc on glue lines or introduce some interesting deflection (warp). 

   This is a case where matching/ordering of boards should, in my opinion, be based on numbers rather than color or appearance.

   Designers are often very creative individuals, but sometimes their ideas can be
   weird".  I don't know if I would not do the job  --  I think I would just insure that everyone was informed of the possible consequences (in writing) so they understand.

2. 
   RSRose | Nov 16, 2002 12:39am | #2

   Nic,

   Take a look at Splintie's work in the Woodworkers Cafe section, "Hitting the smalltime..." for some of the best "combinations" you might ever wish to see.

   R

3. 
   wop | Nov 16, 2002 12:55am | #3

        I am an architect and furniture designer.Generally speaking interior designers don't understand materials and rely on artisans to give them the benefit of their experience when designing. I advise that you tell the designer very clearly of the possible counter indications of combining materials in this manner. If the designer wishes to procede, Require a disclaimer in writing so that you will not be held responsible for eventual defects caused by the design use of incompatable materials. It could be that no problems will arise but it is better to CYA.

                                                                                      Philip

4. 
   Splintie | Nov 16, 2002 03:47am | #4

   Hi, Nic. I've done a lot of laminating, but the only significant problem i ever had was when i used some walnut that was air-dried. Even though it had seasoned for some years, it never quit moving against the KD stuff i glued it up with, so i now use all KD wood for laminating.

   I've laminated all the woods you mention except pear, but i wouldn't do the job without a disclaimer as mentioned if the pear isn't KD, too; probably even if it is KD, unless you've worked with pear before and are familiar with its reactions. On the other hand, i might refuse bec i can't imagine a bunch of bland, tannish woods--one with much stronger grain--looking at all well together, but that's JMO and take no notice if the check cashes. 

   My advice would be to use poly glue bec you won't get glue creep as the wood moves a bit--it will move, it just won't be earthshaking. Especially don't skimp on glue near the ends of the boards because it will shrink first there and you certainly don't want a starved joint. Then after you get the top flattened, let it sit a few days in a house-like environment to adjust to indoor humidity levels before finishing. If you are using a film finish, give the same treatment and number of coats to the bottom as to the top side. 

5. 
   mrles | Nov 16, 2002 07:54pm | #5

   Nic

   I've never glued 2 species together however I refinished a drop front desk a few years ago well over a hundred years old. It was made out of chestnut and poplar and probably put together with hide glue. I could find no joint failure at all. I'm sure this wood was all air dried. There were so many rules broken on this piece according to what we have come to accept as standards today I don't know how it was still together. It was made in Pennsylvania moved to Texas Gulf coast in the 50's this is an extreme change in temp and humidity without any ill effects. It was put together with nails. It was only in need of refinishing and a few minor repairs on worn drawer slides.

   I'm like you I don't want to be a pioneer without all the ammunition I can muster.  I'm sure there is somebody out there that does this all the time with all the answers to your questions.

   In the early 60's I worked for the Singer Sewing Machine Co.  Our best cabinets for our machines were made in Arkansas. The most expensive cabinet was a colonial style stained mahogany Cost $150.00 + the cost of the machine to go in it. The top machine was $299.00. We had one in our showroom it had been there about 2 years when pieces started falling off. I've wondered from time to time was it wood movement or glue failure. I'm opting for glue failure I don't believe wood movement would happen over a 2 year period to this extent.

   Good Luck and God Bless

   les 

6. 
   TomMGTC | Nov 17, 2002 12:49am | #6

   Could you acheive the look they want with veneer and avoid the wood movement issues?