Climb cut on the router table, you know you want to but its not safe. Or is it?
Is there a safe way to climb cut on the table?
Chris
Climb cut on the router table, you know you want to but its not safe. Or is it?
Is there a safe way to climb cut on the table?
Chris
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Replies
I don't know if there is a safe way but I do know someone who is missing the tips of two fingers from climb cutting on the router table.
There is always some risk when climb cutting. It can be the only way with shapes and curves. If you nibble from the end so there isn't material behind the cutter, it can be done on a router table or shaper. You sort of feed in, take a small bite, step ahead a little and repeat. You don't use a full through cut as you would when going against the rotation of the bit. Obviously, you need full control of the workpiece.
On shapes and curves, you normally use a starting pin mounted in the table, unless you are using a fence. You have to make sure your work can't fit between the pin and the bit or it will suck in fast. I have a picture of an arched piece where I used a zero clearance fence, started the cut right on the end, moved ahead without contacting the bit, fed in and backed into the previous cut and so on, until I reached the change in grain direction, hopefully it helps. The arrows indicate grain direction, not feed direction.
Charles Neil once had a video (can't find it now) on what he called "bump cutting".
I have used this a lot to rout concave curves with a template. On the parts where you are risking tearout approach the work to the bit and take out a bite without moving the work along the cutting direction. Repeat all along the cut. You can then rout out the remaining "peaks", either climbing or normally.
I found this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-l4suyL84-w
It's handheld routing but it works for me on a table.
Thanks everyone. Good advice. I just finished a lot of arched parts using a template and ruined several that might have been saved if a climb cut was ok to use.
I think it’ll try it( carefully) and using a fence to limit the cut depth. I'll have to make a special fence for Inside curves
Climb cut on the router table, you know you want to but its not safe. Or is it?
No it is not, but then again is holding some object with your fingers by a spinning blade ever safe?
I use my routers ALOT! I 'Climb Cut' often to work with the grain. I usually pick out wild grain for the woods I use.
No sharp edged tool is really safe in my opinion.
As others have stated, 'climb cutting' is danderous! Period! As is normal 'hand working' with any very sharp tools!
I WOULD SUGGEST that you NEVER try it unless you are VERY comfortable using your router table in the 'normal way'.
I would also suggest that you only use the 'Anti Kickback' bits that limit the depth of cut.
I always use a bit with a ball bearing.. PERIOD! I will NEVER climb cut with out one. EVER!...
Climb cutting IS dangerous, but... Sometimes nothing less will do to get the job finished.
If you have to climb cut do it with a whisper of a cut with many passes... As many as necessary! In fact, I make all my cuts that way. Extra hour or two at the router table or many more hours at the ER is what I think...
AND.. I will always make some Jig/Fixture that will hold onto my 'stick' in work so my pretious fingers are far for the bit!
I think that a 'holder' of some type that keeps your fingers away is the key to safe routing on a table..
But then again, just what I do. It does NOT mean that it is what YOU should do! I would also say, that when 'climb cutting' you usually get a 'bit' of warning that thing are going wrong... IF YOU PAY ATTENTION to what you are doing at the time.
I think sort of like a man and wife... He is so comfortable with Her around he forgets that she is his friend and lover... You HAVE to pay attention on what you are doing!
Two words: Power feeder.
Two other words: Router Boss. :-D
Yes - climb cuts are scary - but they often have to be done.
I always try to get my hands (read plastic safety pushblock) to the "outfeed" side of the workpiece as soon a possible. I don't want anything near that spinning bit; not even the pushblock.
Woodpeckers just came out with a new device that looked so good I bought one. I haven't been able to use it yet as the clearance under the clear plastic top guard was not sufficient to handle my leg material plus the MDF pattern. Woodpeckers is sending me an additional layer of the base plywood to allow use on thicker material.
http://www.woodpeck.com/handguard.html
Jerry
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