Replies

1. 
   woodhacker | Oct 15, 2007 02:42am | #1

   "straight miters or dovetails?" - why not both? Make up the box with straight miters, then saw in dovetails across the corner and slide in the "pins". Another approach would be to make a cradle to hold the box corner-down and run it across a 1/4" router bit or dado blades to create a series of slots into which 1/4" flat stock could be inserted then cut flush to simulate a box joint. With either approach you would have the choice of using a matching or a contrasting wood.

   For clamping, make up some wedges to compliment the angle of each side, attach them to the sides of the box with some hot glue, then use conventional clamps to force the mitered surfaces together. Hopefully a sketch will help clarify this explanation.

   
1. 
   royh | Oct 15, 2007 03:11am | #2

   Thanks, Woodhacker! The combo of straight miter w/ contrasting d-tail 'pins' hadn't occurred to me, but I can do that with a cradle on my router table, no worries. Cool.My main concern was the clamping and your sketch of wedges worked that out for me. Thanks!!BTW, the case will be cherry. Walnut, maple or apple for the 'pins.'Cheers,RoyH

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 15, 2007 03:24am | #3

   Looks like a good plan for the joinery.  Just let me add one thing.  The inside of the box must be finished with several coats of shellac.  Otherwise, the natural acid vapors from the wood can shorten the life of the fabric considerably. Shellac is by far the best sealer and is the only readily available finish that you can count on to cause no problems. 

1. 
   royh | Oct 15, 2007 02:41pm | #6

   Thanks, Steve. I hadn't made it that far in thinking about the finish on the project, and I certainly don't want THIS fabric to deteriorate.Your advice is much appreciated.

2. 
   lamadriver | Oct 15, 2007 08:58am | #4

   Roy,

   I make a lot of these and they can be very frustrating the first few times. Two ways of doing the corners. The top is a 45 miter and the two bottom corners can either be two 22 1/2 deg cuts [very difficult to make match but the best appearance] or two 45 deg cuts with the bottom plate either inside or outside [bottem plate inside the other two covers up the end grain]. Clamping, cut 3 blocks with 45 deg notches, round over the corner opposite the 45 notch and use a band clamp to pull everything together. After glue up as stated before, cut either dovetail or square slots across the corners. Another suggestion if you want to make a hinged lid is to make it all one piece and then cut the top off on the table saw, rabbit the inside of the lid to receive glass. Good luck and make a couple extra and give to returning troops as I do.

1. 
   woodhacker | Oct 15, 2007 02:14pm | #5

   Rockler has a 22.5 degree piloted router bit which should make the cutting of these angles a bit easier.

1. 
   royh | Oct 15, 2007 03:08pm | #8

   Thanks again, Woodhacker. Such a router bit would make joining those two angles much easier I would imagine.I'll try and post some pics if I can remember to fire up the camera.Thanks to all for the fine insights!RoyH

2. 
   royh | Oct 15, 2007 02:59pm | #7

   Thanks, LamaD. I had the 90° sum of the angles worked out and was going to do the 22.5° at the lower corners, so the cautionary note on difficulty is appreciated. The alternative joining with the bottom plate inside the other two just might be the ticket on my first try. A mock up in pine is clearly in order here.I had planned on assembling as one piece and then cutting off the top on the bandsaw, then rabbeting the inside of the top for the glass.Your insights and expertise are much appreciated!

   Edited 10/15/2007 8:03 am ET by RoyH