circular saw set into a seperate table
Does anybody know of a table top into which I can attach a circular saw — instead of buying a table saw when I have a circular saw.
Thanks — John in Baton Rouge, LA
Does anybody know of a table top into which I can attach a circular saw — instead of buying a table saw when I have a circular saw.
Thanks — John in Baton Rouge, LA
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Replies
Are you speaking of, like, a Skill Saw or similar?
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
John , you simply cannot get as accurate cut using a circular saw, obviously upside down, as you can on a table saw. Not powerful enough, not accurate enough, not enough period. Sorry ol man, cannot go with this as an option!
I had a table like the one you are asking about. It was made more for construction sites doing real rough work rather than finer more finshed work. The think the name on it was Hirch. Not worth the effort if you are planning to use it as a table saw.
Scott C. Frankland
I agree with wanie 100% .If you think a worm drive is powerful enough, be warned ,they seize up if run upside down for too long!
John,
Are you concerned about space, money or both? It isn't the best way to go. A tablesaw is far more accurate.
If you don't want to spend the money for a tablesaw. Might I suggest a good straight edge like a tru-grip or lee valley sells a nice long straight edge and a traveling guide. You can even get a cross cut guide to attach to your saw.
Hope this helps,
Len
i have seen home made boxes with a motor and a belt attached to an axle and a blade. the box is made of scraps, the motor couldn't cost much, and it sure has a lot of character!
John
I will go against the flow and say that my first saw was a 50's ShopMate mounted under a piece of plywood with a insert cut out for the blade to protrude through. Clamped it on two sawhorses, used a piece of angle aluminum for the fence ( clamped at both ends after careful and tedious measuring ). Switch the blade to a hollow ground planer for a smoother cut. Good to go...
Now, I will repute what I just said by stating that all posters are correct that it is not the ideal set-up. Save and get a table-saw, or use the guide mentioned. With the proper set-up that scenario can be very accurate. The main problem is the cut off switch. You need to modify so it can be turned on and off safely. It takes time to set up the mounted circular properly. If you don't have patience, don't even bother.
Also, this is only adequate for smaller projects and mainly with softer woods as the circular saw is not a power-house. I used this method for two years till I could afford a TS. I will say, that even though not a perfect scenario, having used it I rarely miss a set-up on a TS as I became accustomed to tediously checking the set up before the blade meets wood.
Good Luck...
sarge..jt
Given the lack of response from the originator of this thread, I'm wondering if we're victims of a late April Fool's joke! Sure getting a lot of serious feedback. BTW, I had one of those Hirsch tables about 20 years ago, used it out at the stables for rough carpentry. I don't know if they're around any more.
How ya doin' Sarge???forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Jamie
I don't think the table you mentioned is. Doing well personally. Just retrieved my wife from a 6 day hospital stay yesterday. All seems well there though, thank you.
Have a great day m'lady...
sarge..jt
Sarge,
Excellent advise! Thanks. I will get a TS. I will be cutting 4X8 sheets of plywood and I'm worried about keeping the large sheet squarely connected to both the fence and the table top. Once a few cuts have been made, the smaller sections of plywood will be managable I'm hoping. Thanks, John
I'm still working on space for a table saw and have made good use of my old circular saw for cutting panels. I built the guide from the link below, tuned up my saw, bought a good blade and can now make nice straight clean panel cuts.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00035.asp
bit
John
Just an idea as Bitman mentioned. I have a small slider. I do not have enough extention on the left to get full sheets on the saw. I bought a $35 folding table (plastic top and study metal legs at Sam's Club). Put the full sheet on it and use a Tru-Grip (fantastic accuracy and quick set up) to trim it down to size. I have a PC cirlular saw and use a cheap Oldham 60 tooth blade on it. I score the cut and cover with a piece of masking tape to eliminate splinter.
When I have it down to working size, it sees the TS. I have 60" right extention and 40" to the rear. Whatever TS you buy, you can build workable MDF extetions or tables that roll up to it for extentions. And they're cheap to build. Three coats of poly and all surfaces and you got a surface within usually .005 flat.
Check Bitman's site for other ideas and good luck. I think you will not regret the TS, but don't throw that circular saw away. You will find out just how accurate and handy it can be with guides (home-made, Tru-Grip, etc.). They are all just part of the "big picture".
Evening...
sarge..jt
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